Chinese Flower
Posted 10/06/2013 - 13:31
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Pentaxophile wrote:
They look nice to me, could do with a bit of curves to brighten them up and give them a bit more contrast. Looks like a good flower lens!
thanks~They look nice to me, could do with a bit of curves to brighten them up and give them a bit more contrast. Looks like a good flower lens!
could you tell me how to make them brighten?
i set ISO-200 and -0.7EV. if i set the EV up, the shutter speed will smaller and may let the photo a little shake.And i'm not sure it's right.
what's the useful way to make brighten?
Posted 10/06/2013 - 14:13
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Yes, it's a very nice lens indeed (if heavy).
To brighten them up the best way may be to take the shots in some contrasty sunlight amd maybe misted with some very fine water droplets but I suspect the comment actually referred to doing something in post processing.
If you open the photograph in your photo-editing program of choice there will almost certainly be multiple tools offered that can alter exposure, colour saturation and contrast to taste. If you take the shot in raw rather tha jpeg more post processing adjustment can be applied as well.
How your images are finally rendered is very much a matter of taste and can be adjusted in post processing to suit - personnaly I think your images alrteady sufficiently exposed and adequately saturated. A bit more contrast between shadows and highlight's may not go amiss and should be easy to do - exactly how you do it will vary according to the tool you choose.
Edit - sorry I just realised I'm not answering the original question about keeping the camera 150cm from the subject. I'm not sure I understand what is being asked here - the only thing that really matters is whether the bits of the subject you want in focus are in focus and obviously means that you can't go much closer than the lens can focus.
To brighten them up the best way may be to take the shots in some contrasty sunlight amd maybe misted with some very fine water droplets but I suspect the comment actually referred to doing something in post processing.
If you open the photograph in your photo-editing program of choice there will almost certainly be multiple tools offered that can alter exposure, colour saturation and contrast to taste. If you take the shot in raw rather tha jpeg more post processing adjustment can be applied as well.
How your images are finally rendered is very much a matter of taste and can be adjusted in post processing to suit - personnaly I think your images alrteady sufficiently exposed and adequately saturated. A bit more contrast between shadows and highlight's may not go amiss and should be easy to do - exactly how you do it will vary according to the tool you choose.
Edit - sorry I just realised I'm not answering the original question about keeping the camera 150cm from the subject. I'm not sure I understand what is being asked here - the only thing that really matters is whether the bits of the subject you want in focus are in focus and obviously means that you can't go much closer than the lens can focus.
Posted 10/06/2013 - 17:22
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gwing wrote:
Yes, it's a very nice lens indeed (if heavy).
To brighten them up the best way may be to take the shots in some contrasty sunlight amd maybe misted with some very fine water droplets but I suspect the comment actually referred to doing something in post processing.
If you open the photograph in your photo-editing program of choice there will almost certainly be multiple tools offered that can alter exposure, colour saturation and contrast to taste. If you take the shot in raw rather tha jpeg more post processing adjustment can be applied as well.
How your images are finally rendered is very much a matter of taste and can be adjusted in post processing to suit - personnaly I think your images alrteady sufficiently exposed and adequately saturated. A bit more contrast between shadows and highlight's may not go amiss and should be easy to do - exactly how you do it will vary according to the tool you choose.
Edit - sorry I just realised I'm not answering the original question about keeping the camera 150cm from the subject. I'm not sure I understand what is being asked here - the only thing that really matters is whether the bits of the subject you want in focus are in focus and obviously means that you can't go much closer than the lens can focus.
Thanks! U realy give me a good lesson.Yes, it's a very nice lens indeed (if heavy).
To brighten them up the best way may be to take the shots in some contrasty sunlight amd maybe misted with some very fine water droplets but I suspect the comment actually referred to doing something in post processing.
If you open the photograph in your photo-editing program of choice there will almost certainly be multiple tools offered that can alter exposure, colour saturation and contrast to taste. If you take the shot in raw rather tha jpeg more post processing adjustment can be applied as well.
How your images are finally rendered is very much a matter of taste and can be adjusted in post processing to suit - personnaly I think your images alrteady sufficiently exposed and adequately saturated. A bit more contrast between shadows and highlight's may not go amiss and should be easy to do - exactly how you do it will vary according to the tool you choose.
Edit - sorry I just realised I'm not answering the original question about keeping the camera 150cm from the subject. I'm not sure I understand what is being asked here - the only thing that really matters is whether the bits of the subject you want in focus are in focus and obviously means that you can't go much closer than the lens can focus.
I means the lens' Closest Focus is 150mm. Is it means even use macro thought i can't go much closer than 150mm?
Posted 11/06/2013 - 00:48
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I can't get at my lens at the moment to check due to domestic building works at the moment - but 150mm sounds about right. Do remember this is a (very good) zoom with close focusing ability not a dedicated macro lens.
You will probably find the easiest way to take 'macro' shots is to just set the lens to its closest focusing or macro setting (there is a separate red scale on the lens for the macro range) and then simply move the camera backwards and forwards until your desired subject area is in focus. If you find yourself doing a lot of macro work and want to get closer still combing the lens with an extension tube is a good way to do it - and not expensive if you are happy with the simpler p/k extension tubes, the pk-a mount tubes are significantly rarer and more expensive.
Good luck ...
You will probably find the easiest way to take 'macro' shots is to just set the lens to its closest focusing or macro setting (there is a separate red scale on the lens for the macro range) and then simply move the camera backwards and forwards until your desired subject area is in focus. If you find yourself doing a lot of macro work and want to get closer still combing the lens with an extension tube is a good way to do it - and not expensive if you are happy with the simpler p/k extension tubes, the pk-a mount tubes are significantly rarer and more expensive.
Good luck ...
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3 posts
13 years
But i wonder if open macro,should i keep the distance 150cm above between lens and object?
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