camera set-up

Doesn't highlight protection only affect JPEG?

My preferred starting point, using a K-7, is "P" mode in "Normal" but running it as pseudo AV by using the rear dial and adjusting the aperture to achieve the required DOF. (This does confuse the exif which usually says I'm in AV mode.) I like having the green button to get back to the starting position if I mess it all up. Occasionally, for long exposure work, I will run it in "M".

I start off with fixed centre point focusing but will go to select the focus point and move it around if the subject framing needs it. I usually now always use auto focus as my eyes are just not up to manual focusing. Although for macro work I might use auto as a starting point and have a go at manual.

On the K20D I used centre weighted metering but on the K-7 I seem to get better results with multi-segment metering but sometimes resort to tweaking the ev. (I have to then remember to remove any ev adjustment to not get caught out next time )

I have been caught out too many times with auto ISO that I now set it fixed to 100 and only increase it if the shutter speed gets too slow for the required DOF.

I used to think there were far too many things to remember but now, most of the time, it all seems to come together ok. However for some shots I only seem to be able to spot the awkward issues when they are put on the, larger, PC screen .

Glyn

No it doesn't. It causes the RAW files to be underexposed by 1 stop. I leave it on when I'm shooting RAW as the K-7 handles shadows really well and I could do with more natural/unclipped highlights.

Only ever use AV!......

Only with older pre-A lenses. For example, the Vivitar 28mm close focus lens I have under-exposes by almost 2 stops. I am using older (i.e., SMC Takumar and K series) lenses more and more and therefore notice this problem. Thankfully, I rarely shoot anything that moves and use of the histogram function makes it easy to adjust on the fly.

K.

Oh, thanks, I will investigate that as I do often get clipped highlights - more so than with previous models.

Does it apply -1 EV all the time, or just when it detects bright highlights?

If I'm just wandering around then I've little compulsion about using the auto mode. Obviously if I'm trying to shoot a close-up or want a specific effect I'll be in Av or M depending on the lens, but if I just want to document something I let the camera sort the exposure out and concentrate on making sure I've got a good record of the subject. It's just a case of taking photos for the sake of art vs taking photos for a record of the subject.

I do tend to use A series primes for this - either the 28mm or 50mm. Weirdly the 50mm is a bit more useful as it allows you to screen out foreground clutter, as well as being my fastest lens. My camera bag holds those two along with my A 200mm f4 (when it comes back from being cleaned and having the mould removed). I then strap one or two extra lens cases onto the ends of the bag holding more specialised glass (or my latest acquisition which is still being played with).

I leave the 18-55mm on most of the time as it's a good all-rounder. If you see something and grab the camera that lens won't let you down and will work in full point and shoot mode for moments such as (for example) a helicopter buzzing you at treetop height when you simply don't have time to set it up manually.

Re Highlight Protection: The downside is increased noise in the shadows and minimum ISO of 200.

I tend to use either Av or TAv modes. When using aperture priority I generally set ISO to 100-200 unless the shutter drops to unmanageable levels.

Pete, have you tried Highlight Protection and discovered the increase shadow noise or is this something you have seen reported by others?
Just interested as I have never bothered to use this setting and might give it a go as I do get the occasional clipped highlight.

General use with all but my macro lenses

ISO100, green mode, Auto focus centre spot only, centre weighted or spot metering. JPEG 95% of the time. SR on, some times use the AEL lock if I need too

Macro
ISO 100, M mode, shutter 1/180 usually cause I have the flash on and highest f I can get away with. SR on

Regards
PaulM

The increase in noise is marginal and only visible at 100% magnification. Noise can be removed/reduced in post production. Blown highlights can't be rescued.

ISO 200 isn't really a problem unless you're trying to blur movement.

Usually AV mode here, although I seem to often revert to M mode if I'm using flash. ISO Auto 100-800, spot metering, RAW, SR on, AF on half press of shutter (with AF button set to disable this).

Agreed. However, you can do a similar or better job by manually underexposing then pushing in post processing on your computer. This also enables the use of ISO 100.

I did try the feature on my K20D (and have now briefly on my K-7) and it only provides a slight amount of protection. I'll carry on doing it manually with Silkypix.

The highlight protection on K-7 works much better than the dynamic range enhancement on K20D - I never used it with the latter as the increase in noise was dramatic even at lower ISOs. With the K-7, switching highlight protection on works well and appears to have negligible impact on noise, at least at lower ISO.

Incidentally, I would need to investigate further, but I think it's also possible that the "native" ISO of the sensor in the K-7 is ISO200 rather than 100 - so you may also get increased DR by sticking with that setting in any case. Not all cameras perform at their best at the lowest possible ISO setting.