Cactus Radio P-TTL Update Released

Excellent portraits Nigel, thank you for the info as well,

As mentioned earlier, I've committed to 2 and will try out asap, presume u update when connected to a computer and the cactus software ?

I meant the situation where despite everything switched on, pressing the shutter button would not trigger the flashes. Moving the manual power controls on the TX unit seems to"wake-up" all the RX units. Worth trying even if you are going to be using TTL mode.

Yes, download the latest cactus firmware updater from here https://www.cactus-image.com/downloads.html

then remove batteries from the triggers, plug in the cord and open the updater software.

Excellent tip re the batteries, thanks pschlute

Chris

If I find these work HSS with my Quadra's, at the moment, I reckon they will, I'll invest in a 3rd Trigger as I have a mountain bike shoot through a forest to do next year.

Thanks, they were the first ones done out and about in the wilds, and it worked beautifully. Next I am looking forward to trying out a 2-flash HSS set-up outdoors, using both the RF60 and RF60x, and I guess it can now be a P-TTL shoot as well! How many years have I been hearing complaints from Pentax flashers that its such a problem and that the other bigger brands have it all .....?!

The big advantage of using the FR60 flashes is of course no need for Receiver triggers ..... so I manage with only one V6II. Makes it all very neat and easy.

Chris, give us some more details on those strobes you want to use ..... you might be heading towards a 'trigger stack' situation if you want remote power control .....

Thanks Nigel,

If you've not seen his videos before, highly recommend Damiam LoveGroves " illumination 1 and 2 " download-able for £30, check out his website.

On the Quadras, I can plug in a separate trigger, done it before when I've combined mains and portable flash, so I'm hoping the Cactus Vii's will work the same way. The built in receivers with camera trigger allows power changes remotely, stacking might work, will try it.

It's not to much hassle to walk to the units if they won't communicate re power changes, as I think on location trackside, it'll be pretty much full power anyway.

I'll take a look at Damien's website, thanks for the tip

The most common approach with studio strobes (ie non Hotshoe types) is to use the V6II Transmitter on the camera as an 'HSS Enabler' .... the camera is tricked into recognising the V6II as a P-TTL HSS capable flash, and therefore will generate the needed flash trigger signal beyond the max sync figure. The V6II has extra contact pins to allow the needed communications between it and the camera. Studio strobe system triggers don't have this (well, the ones that are usable with Pentax DSLRS don't).

Then, on top of the V6II, the Studio Systems own transmitter is 'stacked'. All that the V6II does is allow the camera to generate the flash sync signal and pass it through to the transmitter on top. From that point on It is then the features and modes provided by the studio systems triggers that determines what you get .... remote power control or not, real HSS or not, etc ...... So, as you said you have done this then it should work. You need a strobe that allows local, manual engagement of HSS mode. If it relies on a TTL protocol of another camera system (eg E-TTL) to remotely transmit the sync mode, then it won't work.

Thanks Nigel,

I might come back to you when I've had a play sometime prob next weekend.

I meant the situation where despite everything switched on, pressing the shutter button would not trigger the flashes. Moving the manual power controls on the TX unit seems to"wake-up" all the RX units. Worth trying even if you are going to be using TTL mode.[/quote]this happened to me several times outdoor, but switching power control didn't fix the situation ...then back home it would everything work as nothing happened.

I remember you asking about those problems Seb. Did you eliminate the 'Short Range' setting as a possible cause?

As I said at the time, a recycling of the metering circuit could help, as the Tx might time out, plus the obvious tightening of the locking levers to be sure everything is fitted together tightly. Also Peters idea is a good one too.

The triggers will work exactly the same indoors as outside, so long as they are working within their Range limits. I suspect that the issues were caused by a difference in your workflow and set-up approach which you had lost awareness of, due to the extra factors and considerations when working outside and trying to control ambient light as well. .... In other words, the Human Factors, often the most difficult problems to resolve .

Yes i too suspect the range may be the issue or the sleep settings on the cactus units and or camera. i find when working with flash that is is best to change the camera setting so it has a much longer delay before it nods off.

Yes I tried everything, last time I used them few days ago. at first they worked, then they stopped without explanation. When I am with a model I don't have the time to fiddle with the tools, they are not really pro, but young people that are not really that patient. Anyhow, I am not blaming anything else than myself at the moment, because I didn't have the time to properly test them on field. Waiting for a studio to try them properly.

I fully understand. Look, I apologise for the elements of 'amateur psychology' that might be coming through here , but I do feel that it is probably the extra pressure and aiming to focus everything, all your attention, onto the model and the creative stuff, that is causing something to be missed or done differently than when you're alone indoors testing things.

Or maybe you're just all fingers and thumbs when you're around those pretty young models! (I would most likely be too !) I guess that there has to be a balance of attention on the technical and creative parts together ..... with flash you have to keep attention on the technical throughout.

Don't wait for a studio to test it all. You can use a doll, soft toy, or vase of flowers as a subject , and outdoors practise a methodical step by step approach to getting your ambient and flash exposures nailed reliably and consistently. The more this is ingrained and kind of mechanical, then It will all work just naturally when you're with the model again.

Perhaps the X-TTL firmware will help also? A fresh start for the triggers could be a good thing. Also, perhaps your shooting style will suit P-TTL automated flash exposures more than Manual? It might free you from one variable. I would just urge everyone considering trying HSS in bright light outdoors ..... don't try and 'dial down' the flash to be subtle! In bright conditions your subject has to be actually lit by the flash .... forget the idea of 'fill-in' .....that won't light anything. If you move to P-TTL HSS with bright conditions all around, sky and highlights, you'll likely be looking at Plus compensation settings to (eg +1.5, +2.0), to create a good balance between your flash-lit subject and the background.

this is the part that you don't seem to get. I have two heads for wigs at home and I did dozens of tests. At home it works always perfectly, it's when I am out that it unexplainable fails. However I tested out just 3 times so far (and failed 100% of the times )
I am a cactus beta user and being testing x-ttl for a while. This is not a matter of I don't get what I want, this is a matter of the flash not shooting at ALL!! (while the test button instead works ).

Again, there is no explanation why it didn't work all the times outdoor and I don't think is a defect as it always works at home, it's just that I have to use them in a more relaxed environment and I need to build a photoshoot around them. That's why I want to wait for the studio.

P.S.: you can see my models at: https://www.instagram.com/sebasphotolab/

P.P.S.: I was never able to reproduce the not working situation in a controlled environment. Also I use a Metz flash not a pentax or cactus one and this could make difference as well.