blown highlites

You want to be sure your metering approach is correct to start with - the conditions you describe suggest there is high contrast in the scenes, with the brighter tones in the upper regions. If too much of the lower areas of the frame are dark (eg deep shadow areas) then the meter is seeing too much of this, resulting in overexposure.

Firstly, ensure you're using full matrix metering to allow the camera to take greater account of the bright areas. You will get increased effect also if you tilt the camera up a bit to let it 'see' more brighter areas - then use the exposure lock button (*) to hold this setting - move the camera back down to your intended composition and shoot.

This will result in darker images, & hopefully no blown highs. If you're shooting JPEG you'll get some benefit from the automatic dynamic range compression that this format entails - but if its not enough (for example you now find your shadows are too dark) then I'd make use of the 'shadow correction' feature, if your camera has it.

I think this approach of metering more for your highlights will work better than just applying 'highlight correction', which is after all just an in-camera software process. So is the shadow correction of course, but modern Pentax cameras are very good at recording and boosting shadow detail.

The dynamic range of the 16mp sensor used in most Pentax cameras is extraordinary. You can set the camera up to record an even wider range as suggested above. But the best way to maximise the range is to shoot in RAW. It's amazing how much highlight detail can be recovered in post processing.

I quite agree: the plumes of smoke and steam from steam engines and white clouds on a sunny day require careful exposure. It's tempting to underexpose an image to retan highlight detail since, to most people, blown highlights look a lot worse than blocked-in shadows but with steam engines you need detail in, for example, the wheels and motion.

I too photograph steam trains, among many other subjects not, alas birds. Blown highlights concern me too, not just in the steam but in highly polished paintwork on the restored locomotives which are kept beautifully clean these days.
I used to routinely underexpose by 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop but gave that up because underexposed pictures can become more digitally noisy when processed.
Do you shoot in RAW? Its much easier to recover blown highlights if you do rather than from JPEG.
In the RAW processor I use the recovery slider to do this.
These days I don't often encounter many problems with blown highlights.
David

PPG: http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/davidtrout

Can't be helped sometimes Graham. Where you can use the histogram or blinkies on the camera lcd to check as you go.

You may be able in many instances be able to shoot bracketed exposures for the trains.

For wildlife you have to keep checking exposure. I've taken so many photos of sticks its ridiculous. But if it means the kingfisher is correctly exposed when it turns up, its worth it.

There's no easy answer. Which ever type of meter reading you are using, you have to understand how light falling on the subject will impact on exposure. This only comes with practice.

Using a program such as lightroom it is good to be able to lift shadows and reduce highlights when shooting in RAW.

Look forward to seeing your photos on here