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Big P or a little P

K10D
Posted 19/01/2017 - 09:48 Link
I have a small project coming up where I will be photographing various model aircraft engines. The DOF will need to be deep as all details need to be in focus. I'll need to make up a small light box studio (cardboard box approach) and set up some lighting. Do I consider two or three flashguns or do I use two or three cool white LED lamps and sort white balance later? Do I use a 50mm macro or the 35mm macro? Do I use a DSLR or a pocket rocket? The advantage of a pocket rocket is effectively endless DOF at f/8.

Small tripod or camera mount is taken as a must so is remote release.

I'm fairly certain of which route I'll take, what way would you approach the task?

Oh yes, Big P or a little P. Pentax APS-C or Q.

Best regards
a lullaby will induce sleep....or tears.
JAK
Posted 19/01/2017 - 10:35 Link
I'd have thought the Q would be the easiest for your project. Big P might require some focus stacking which would be a bit of a faff!
John K
johnriley
Posted 19/01/2017 - 11:00 Link
The Q might well be ideal. If you need to you can even get AF extension tubes on the web.
Best regards, John
davidwozhere
Posted 20/01/2017 - 01:38 Link
I find that I can get quite deep dof using a set of bellows with a 135mm on the end and delayed shutter release. Constant light seems better since you are not trying to stop movement and it's not so fiddly. Also, should you need to focus stack, the bellows is absolutely perfect for it.
Both the *istDS and the K5 are incurably addicted to old glass

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pentaxian450
Posted 20/01/2017 - 02:25 - Helpful Comment Link
If you light the subjects with LED or fluorescent lights, make sure they are full spectrum, otherwise you might end up with nasty colors you won't be able to correct.

Some LED lights are missing wide color bands in the spectrum. The manufacturer copes with these "missing links" by increasing or attenuating some other colors to fool the eye into perceiving the light as "neutral white" .

Unfortunately, there is no way to bring back the missing part of the spectrum.

A simpler alternative to light box is to use a frame holding stretched tracing paper. Using this alternative gives a lot of flexibility to the diffusion since you can increase or decrease the distance of the tracing paper frame from the subject at will to get just the right amount of diffusion needed for the subject.

Using a sheet of flat black tracing paper with this type of lighting allows very good contrast with metallic subjects while avoiding messy reflections.

Good luck with your project.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
Edited by pentaxian450: 20/01/2017 - 02:26
K10D
Posted 20/01/2017 - 08:06 Link
pentaxian450 wrote:
If you light the subjects with LED or fluorescent lights, make sure they are full spectrum, otherwise you might end up with nasty colors you won't be able to correct.

Some LED lights are missing wide color bands in the spectrum. The manufacturer copes with these "missing links" by increasing or attenuating some other colors to fool the eye into perceiving the light as "neutral white" .

Unfortunately, there is no way to bring back the missing part of the spectrum.

A simpler alternative to light box is to use a frame holding stretched tracing paper. Using this alternative gives a lot of flexibility to the diffusion since you can increase or decrease the distance of the tracing paper frame from the subject at will to get just the right amount of diffusion needed for the subject.

Using a sheet of flat black tracing paper with this type of lighting allows very good contrast with metallic subjects while avoiding messy reflections.

Good luck with your project.

Extremely valid point about the LED lighting. Feel daft for forgetting about that stuff as it's an area I've worked in using LED light sources with analytical detectors.

I'm not focus stacking as there's close to one hundred engines to photograph.

Best regards
a lullaby will induce sleep....or tears.
Don
Posted 20/01/2017 - 15:26 Link
this is a job for tungsten lights... one cheap halogen worklight in the 500 watt range.. yes you can go with cooler lights if ya got them, but nothing will be cheaper than halogen to buy, and you're dealing with toys, not ice cream.
set up your light table and you'll have benefits with the halogen..
one being easier viewing through the viewfinder if you're using extension tubes or bellows.. you can check you DOF and set your focus points easier..
and longer exposures will be easier to set up.
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
pentaxian450
Posted 20/01/2017 - 23:14 Link
Unfortunately, halogens are very uncomfortable to work with. They just generate too much heat. They also turn most diffuser yellow faster than you can say it. Full spectrum LEDs or fluorescents are a lot easier too use, and they can be used for portraits without melting the mascara or lip gloss.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
JAK
Posted 20/01/2017 - 23:59 Link
Why not daylight with a reflector is it helps?? By a window perhaps?
John K
K10D
Posted 21/01/2017 - 08:45 Link
JAK wrote:
Why not daylight with a reflector is it helps?? By a window perhaps?

It's possible if the daylight here changes from dull grey to natural bright light.

I'm looking into the full spectrum LED set up at the moment as it then allows any time of day/night shooting.

Best regards
a lullaby will induce sleep....or tears.

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