Attempt at manual focus etc.

Malo1961
Posted 21/01/2010 - 20:57 Link
As a side note:
The more I look at the OP's picture the more I am thinking about the dioptre setting, having to be adjusted.

Let's face it. The Op thought the Pull was in focus, at least....that is what his eyes told his brain. Because of the focus point being that close behind the Pull ( suggesting the aperture being set to almost wide open)

Knowing he uses a mf lens could well mean the dioptre needs to be corrected
to calibrate his eye sight and thereby solve the problem.
Best regards,

Martin.


Curious about my photography?? Just Follow the Light.
womble
Posted 21/01/2010 - 21:21 Link
Seems a likely situation Malo.

Sadly the dioptre adjustment for my K20D is as far over as it will go and that is just about OK. I have the FA-1W on my LX which is wonderful. I really must get a Katz-eye for my K20D. I have been thinking about it for ages but haven't bitten the bullet yet. I am sure I'd use my manual lenses more if I did, and it is a shame not to get good use out of the Jupiter 90 or my various nifty 50s (although the f/1.2 is getting a fair bit of use which is a shame because I intended to sell it on! ).

K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Malo1961
Posted 21/01/2010 - 21:39 Link
Kris,
wouldn't this be a slightly cheaper and more versatile solution, for on your k20D ?
Best regards,

Martin.


Curious about my photography?? Just Follow the Light.
Edited by Malo1961: 21/01/2010 - 21:40
Dangermouse
Posted 21/01/2010 - 21:44 Link
The other problem I run into (especially in low light or with poor contrast) is that the camera doesn't always give focus confirmation. I know this as I've gone through "in focus" and out the other side without even a flicker!

The only snag with the Katz Eye screens is the price, and the fact that I wouldn't feel brave enough to fiddle about with my K-m.
Matt

Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.
ChrisA
Posted 21/01/2010 - 23:04 Link
Malo1961 wrote:
There is no electronic linkage between original MF lenses and modern Dslr's except the contacts who give the aperture info. ( Pentax A lenses)
Sure... no disagreement there.

Quote:
So how could there be communication between the movement of the focus ring and the camera electronics ??
How is that relevant though? It's not the movement of the focus ring that enables the camera to tell the image is sharp.

As I understand it, it's quite the reverse - the camera measures the out-of-focusness, and moves the focus (if it can) accordingly.

I'm sure those that understand phase detection AF systems better than I do can explain it better, but if the AF system can tell a MF lens is in focus using the centre AF point, why not one of the others?
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Malo1961
Posted 22/01/2010 - 05:51 Link
I am Noooooo...expert either Chris.
But if it is possibles to select different focus points with DA lenses, when using them manual focus, I suspect that the way internal lens elements move while manually focussing there is some sort of communication necessary to communicate with the AF system. Why this is only allowed with the centre focus point, I can't explain. Maybe an expert can explain this.
Interesting subject, though.
Best regards,

Martin.


Curious about my photography?? Just Follow the Light.
sam-joseph
Posted 22/01/2010 - 06:44 Link
OK, here's my two bob's worth. I've just acquired an A 50 1.7 (took 5 days to get from Texas to Australia. Not bad, eh?), and I've been experimenting with it, as you do. Try opening it right up (f1.7) and placing the subject (a person's face) a metre or two from the wall. Now use the focus tips the other gents have mentioned and you'll be rewarded with a cracker of a shot. Even better if nudity is involved. And the female model should be youthful and fit. I look forward to seeing the results...
Regards
Sam-Joseph
Pentax K7, Sigma 17-70 f2.8-4.5, Sigma 70-200 f2.8 APO EX, Sigma 70-300 APO, Sigma 1.4x TC, Vivitar 2x TC. Takumar 135mm f2.5, SMC Pentax A 50mm 1:1.7, SMC Pentax -M 1:4 200mm, Pentax X70

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