AF.C focusing, full explanation please
Posted 21/07/2009 - 14:30
Link
aminstar wrote:
As an example here, if the Drive Mode, "Continuous Hi" is chosen in the Fn menu (aka machine gun mode, ok I just made this up), and if you have the focusing mode set for AF.C and shot a subject keeping your shutter release button completely pressed, would the focusing still track the moving subject? Or the moment the shutter release button goes from half pressed to full pressed the focusing locks and all the images under that shot will be taken at the locked focus?
Yes it would focus during shots as best as it can, the problem is that it can only focus when the mirror is up so when making a photo it isn't focusing.As an example here, if the Drive Mode, "Continuous Hi" is chosen in the Fn menu (aka machine gun mode, ok I just made this up), and if you have the focusing mode set for AF.C and shot a subject keeping your shutter release button completely pressed, would the focusing still track the moving subject? Or the moment the shutter release button goes from half pressed to full pressed the focusing locks and all the images under that shot will be taken at the locked focus?
It needs the mirror because it reflects the light onto the AF sensor.
With the K10D I hardly use AF.C, with moving subjects I predict where it will be and focus there and wait till it's in focus.
Posted 21/07/2009 - 14:37
Link
i use afc 99% of the time,
helps with the birds,
[IMG]http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/perigrinefalcon2.jpg[/IMG]
helps with the birds,
[IMG]http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/perigrinefalcon2.jpg[/IMG]
just keep snapping,
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/scottbenson
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/
CAMERAS = k200d + battery grip.
nikon d300 + battery grip.
LENSES = tamron aspherical DII 18-200mm f3.5/6.3,
nikon 18-200mm afs vr f3.5/5.6 g dx
sigma 150-500mm apo dg hsm os
sigma 170-500mm apo dg
FLASH = samsung sef36pzf flash + more.
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/scottbenson
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/
CAMERAS = k200d + battery grip.
nikon d300 + battery grip.
LENSES = tamron aspherical DII 18-200mm f3.5/6.3,
nikon 18-200mm afs vr f3.5/5.6 g dx
sigma 150-500mm apo dg hsm os
sigma 170-500mm apo dg
FLASH = samsung sef36pzf flash + more.
Posted 21/07/2009 - 14:44
Link
Scott I'm going off topic now but how much do you sharpen your photos, i think you've some halos because of that?
Here is a little trick I used when I get those halos, I duplicate the original layer without the sharpening and place it atop of the sharpened version and set the layer to darken and around 70% opacity, that way it darkens the white halos you get, but you still have the sharpening on the subject.
Here is a little trick I used when I get those halos, I duplicate the original layer without the sharpening and place it atop of the sharpened version and set the layer to darken and around 70% opacity, that way it darkens the white halos you get, but you still have the sharpening on the subject.
Posted 21/07/2009 - 14:52
Link
Anvh wrote:
Scott I'm going off topic now but how much do you sharpen your photos, i think you've some halos because of that?
Here is a little trick I used when I get those halos, I duplicate the original layer without the sharpening and place it atop of the sharpened version and set the layer to darken and around 70% opacity, that way it darkens the white halos you get, but you still have the sharpening on the subject.
stefan in all honesty this pic was under exposed, and is heavily croped,
Scott I'm going off topic now but how much do you sharpen your photos, i think you've some halos because of that?
Here is a little trick I used when I get those halos, I duplicate the original layer without the sharpening and place it atop of the sharpened version and set the layer to darken and around 70% opacity, that way it darkens the white halos you get, but you still have the sharpening on the subject.
just keep snapping,
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/scottbenson
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/
CAMERAS = k200d + battery grip.
nikon d300 + battery grip.
LENSES = tamron aspherical DII 18-200mm f3.5/6.3,
nikon 18-200mm afs vr f3.5/5.6 g dx
sigma 150-500mm apo dg hsm os
sigma 170-500mm apo dg
FLASH = samsung sef36pzf flash + more.
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/scottbenson
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/
CAMERAS = k200d + battery grip.
nikon d300 + battery grip.
LENSES = tamron aspherical DII 18-200mm f3.5/6.3,
nikon 18-200mm afs vr f3.5/5.6 g dx
sigma 150-500mm apo dg hsm os
sigma 170-500mm apo dg
FLASH = samsung sef36pzf flash + more.
Posted 21/07/2009 - 14:53
Link
is this the same,[IMG]http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/perigrinfalcon1.jpg[/IMG]
just keep snapping,
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/scottbenson
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/
CAMERAS = k200d + battery grip.
nikon d300 + battery grip.
LENSES = tamron aspherical DII 18-200mm f3.5/6.3,
nikon 18-200mm afs vr f3.5/5.6 g dx
sigma 150-500mm apo dg hsm os
sigma 170-500mm apo dg
FLASH = samsung sef36pzf flash + more.
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/scottbenson
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/scottthehat/
CAMERAS = k200d + battery grip.
nikon d300 + battery grip.
LENSES = tamron aspherical DII 18-200mm f3.5/6.3,
nikon 18-200mm afs vr f3.5/5.6 g dx
sigma 150-500mm apo dg hsm os
sigma 170-500mm apo dg
FLASH = samsung sef36pzf flash + more.
Posted 21/07/2009 - 16:09
Link
It's hard to see on this crop but you have a bright line on the birds left wing tip (so his left)
But that can also be aberration, you know for yourself if it it's introduced by the sharpening.
With the first photo you see a bright line along his left flank.
With this shot, you see it alone the outline against the blue sky.

But that can also be aberration, you know for yourself if it it's introduced by the sharpening.
With the first photo you see a bright line along his left flank.
With this shot, you see it alone the outline against the blue sky.

Posted 21/07/2009 - 17:21
Link
AF-C seems to get quite a few negative comments but I've used it recently for some of the 1st shots taken with my new K20D...all were "motorsport" panning shots and the AF-C seemed to work quite well. I posted one or two of the shots in this thread
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/pageant-of-power---cheshire-13528
Simon
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/pageant-of-power---cheshire-13528
Simon
My website http://www.landscapephotographyuk.com
My Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/landscapephotographyuk
Find me on Google+ link
My Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/landscapephotographyuk
Find me on Google+ link
Posted 21/07/2009 - 17:40
Link
Simon those are shot from the side so it's easier for the AF to keep track on that, if something comes towards it would have a much harder time.
These where done with manual focus link
And this weekend I've been to the DTM and also only used MF, still need to process them. Shot 771 photos that day
These where done with manual focus link
And this weekend I've been to the DTM and also only used MF, still need to process them. Shot 771 photos that day
Posted 21/07/2009 - 17:54
Link
That mode always makes me laugh... at myself...
When I first started out I read the manual on how AF-C worked and though it was the most magical invention. I mean, how could the camera be smart and fast enough to track a moving object.
Oddly, every time I went out and tried all I got was out of focus subjects with in focus backgrounds.
Finally it was explained to me that it is simply continuous focus and tracks the object in the focus sensor.... it has no way to determine an object is moving laterally and keep focusing on a subject that moves away from the sensor. (definitely one of those whack yourself in the head moments) Now that we have multiple focus sensors perhaps this works better, but I still get a laugh when I turn on that switch.
Still, I have a hard time keeping the subject on the sensor so I tend to get a lot of blurred subject photos. Using auto to make use of all of the focus sensors seemed to make things worse. The camera could not keep track of what I was trying to focus on. One the subject moved off the current sensor, the tree in the background would become very interesting.
The system probably works much better for birds against a plain blue sky. Tracking herd dogs running back and forth in a open field is quite tricky.
Still, got about 30% hit rate with AF-S but upped to about 50% or more with AF-C and center focus. (probably less than 10% with AF-C and auto select)
Sorry for rambling, but just thought some might get a laugh at my "insights"on AF-C.
When I first started out I read the manual on how AF-C worked and though it was the most magical invention. I mean, how could the camera be smart and fast enough to track a moving object.
Oddly, every time I went out and tried all I got was out of focus subjects with in focus backgrounds.
Finally it was explained to me that it is simply continuous focus and tracks the object in the focus sensor.... it has no way to determine an object is moving laterally and keep focusing on a subject that moves away from the sensor. (definitely one of those whack yourself in the head moments) Now that we have multiple focus sensors perhaps this works better, but I still get a laugh when I turn on that switch.
Still, I have a hard time keeping the subject on the sensor so I tend to get a lot of blurred subject photos. Using auto to make use of all of the focus sensors seemed to make things worse. The camera could not keep track of what I was trying to focus on. One the subject moved off the current sensor, the tree in the background would become very interesting.
The system probably works much better for birds against a plain blue sky. Tracking herd dogs running back and forth in a open field is quite tricky.
Still, got about 30% hit rate with AF-S but upped to about 50% or more with AF-C and center focus. (probably less than 10% with AF-C and auto select)
Sorry for rambling, but just thought some might get a laugh at my "insights"on AF-C.
Posted 21/07/2009 - 23:29
Link
Anvh wrote:
. . . the problem is that it can only focus when the mirror is up . . .
Did I miss something? The Pentax AF mechanism requires the mirror to be down, not up. Doesn't the mirror stay up in 'machine gun' mode? If so, how can the AF system work?. . . the problem is that it can only focus when the mirror is up . . .
Actually I've never used this mode so I'm preparing myself to be shot down in flames . . .
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.



2094 posts
17 years
London,
UK
Can someone please break it down this in details, other than obviously the most obvious which is that it constantly tracks and focuses the subject as long as the shutter release button is half pressed.
As an example here, if the Drive Mode, "Continuous Hi" is chosen in the Fn menu (aka machine gun mode, ok I just made this up), and if you have the focusing mode set for AF.C and shot a subject keeping your shutter release button completely pressed, would the focusing still track the moving subject? Or the moment the shutter release button goes from half pressed to full pressed the focusing locks and all the images under that shot will be taken at the locked focus?
Just curious what members understand from this feature and also reading from the manual please