Advice Requested - 2 x AF240FT + Stroboframe + K20D etc

Hi,
I would appreciate some advice on the following:
I have two AF240FT Pentax Flashes, A Stroboframe off camera flash bracket, 2 x Extension Cord F5P, a Hot Shoe adapter FG, an Off-Camera Shoe Adapter F and a K20D SLR.
What set-up is best? Do I Join the Hot Shoe Adapter FG to the Off camera Shoe Adapter F, attach them to the camera and link the two flashes by means of the two cords (a number of combinations are possible - which is best?). Although the flashes are linked to the camera by the cords attached to the plugins at the sides, will it cause a problem when I attach the flashes to the Stroboframe as it has metal "hot shoes" and I am worried that the four pins on the base of the flashes will short out because of this. I realise that PTL and TTL are not available - what is the best method (on both camera and flashes) for control of macro shots.
Thanks all,
Col

I am sure "Mannesty" will be along shortly, he has the same flashes and uses them in a dual head configuration.

I have something similar but use 2 AF200T flashes, I found they have very good manual controls, down to 16th output if I am not mistaken.

Here is my home made single head version, I have a dual head also.

[IMG]http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x261/ClarkyinAus/IMGP5709.jpg[/IMG]

I haven't used my rig at all since getting the AF160FC.

For mine, I stack the two hot shoe adapters on the camera's hot shoe and take the cables to the guns.

I used manual (H or L) output on the flash and trial and error exposure on the K10D/20D but if you have a *istD or *istDS body you can use TTL control.

Be warned. It's very heavy.

Hi Peter,
I do like your setup - I might have a go at one of those diffusers myself.
Thank you very much for the info re how to go with the hot shoe adapters and the flash information. Do you know if having the four pins, on the base of the flash, resting on a metal "hotshoe" would cause problems or would the cord, coming into the side socket, bypass this.
All the best to you and yours,
Col

Hi Clarky,
I missed the split between yourself and Peter - was too interested in the photo and info to see that both of you answered me - Thanks for the help.
All the best,
Col

I have just metered the connections and you will need to use an insulated hot shoe.
Hope that helps.

John

Good question. I believe it does cause an issue. I used Hama hot shoe adapters for mine initially and I recall having to hack/drill/file away the area of the metal shoe where one of the four pins made contact with the metal shoe. I don't think having the cables plugged in prevents this issue but I can't remember what actually was the problem. All I know is that something didn't work properly else I wouldn't have had to do it.

I had to do exactly the same thing to my Hot Shoe grip.

My current rig has insulated flash shoes anyway.

You could try simply insulating the flash from the shoe temporarily.

Thanks John and Peter.
I'll glue strips of thin plastic film onto the Stroboframe hotshoes and see how that works.
Thanks also to everyone who helped - I probably could have worked everything out by trial and error but was a bit scared of frying my flashes or, worse still, my camera.
Now all I have to do is to start taking some marvelous photos.
All the best,
Col

My rig looks like this. The two Omnibounce diffusers are from my AF360FGZ's but fit the AF240FT's well enough.

Thanks Gareth. The kit shown comprises:-

Pentax K20D + Grip
Sigma EX DG 180mm 1:3.5 Macro
2 X AF240T flashes
2 X Hot shoe adapter F
2 X cables for above
Pentax Macro Focussing Rail
Stroboflex twin flash bracket.
Manfrotto 055B tripod and 488RC2 ball head.

As I said in a previous thread some months/years ago, this is not the way that Pentax recommend cabling multiple flashes. These are in parallel effectively. Pentax recommend serial (daisy chain) connection. At the end of the day, it works for me.

A conversion to wireless P-TTL would be very simple too. Replace AF240T's with AF360/540GGZ's and use popup flash as controller.

The key to good macro images in my opinion is plenty of light, more than you need if possible. Apart from focus stacking, lots of light and a small aperture is the only way to get reasonable DOF.