360 Flash with 50-200 lens?
Posted 21/01/2010 - 00:43
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If you leave it in auto (mounted on the camera) it will select the narrowest angle (85mm) anyway, so no need for a manual override. When using the flash off camera it'd be worth experimenting with manual zoom settings to see which suits the subject best - if I'm bouncing it off a ceiling then I tend to have it set to the widest angle, if I'm aiming it at the subject then I use the narrowest to get a little more direction to the light. From memory I think it defaults to the widest setting if you leave it on auto and use it wirelessly.
Joining the Q
Posted 21/01/2010 - 01:17
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Does this mean that I can't use P-TTL? Cheers
Posted 21/01/2010 - 01:30 - Helpful Comment
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Yes you can use P-TTL both on and off camera.
The zoom setting is entirely independent of the P-TTL protocol so picking a length manually will make no difference to the metering (which is what P-TTL is concerned with), just to the angle at which the light leaves the flash head.
The only thing you can't use is the automatic zoom when the flash isn't directly connected to the camera. That's when you want to set it manually according to the subject and the position of the flash (experiment and adjust to taste).
If you really feel the need to have the light narrower than the 85mm setting provides, then you can make your own DIY light modifiers by wrapping some tin foil around the head with a progressively narrower gap at the front to let the light escape - I think you'll find the 85mm setting will be just fine for most uses though.
The zoom setting is entirely independent of the P-TTL protocol so picking a length manually will make no difference to the metering (which is what P-TTL is concerned with), just to the angle at which the light leaves the flash head.
The only thing you can't use is the automatic zoom when the flash isn't directly connected to the camera. That's when you want to set it manually according to the subject and the position of the flash (experiment and adjust to taste).
If you really feel the need to have the light narrower than the 85mm setting provides, then you can make your own DIY light modifiers by wrapping some tin foil around the head with a progressively narrower gap at the front to let the light escape - I think you'll find the 85mm setting will be just fine for most uses though.
Joining the Q
Posted 21/01/2010 - 07:05
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It doesn't matter if the flash's zoom doesn't match the lens range
Just shoot away! With P-TTL the camera is controlling the exposure based on what it sees through the lens, so it will work fine with longer zooms.
Technically it'll work, however, for longer focal lengths you'll probably get a better quality of light by (a) bouncing, (b) diffusing, (c) mounting the flash off camera. The further your subject is away from the flash, the more "pin source" it appears and the more "cardboard cut out" the subject can become. Just experiment (and don't be afraid to try different zoom settings to get different qualities of light)
Obviously you'll only get wireless in a body that supports wireless with the pop-up (e.g. *ist-D, K10D, K20D, K200D, K7D). Other bodies that don't support wireless with the pop-up will require two AF360s... but then you probably knew that already
Matt
Just shoot away! With P-TTL the camera is controlling the exposure based on what it sees through the lens, so it will work fine with longer zooms.
Technically it'll work, however, for longer focal lengths you'll probably get a better quality of light by (a) bouncing, (b) diffusing, (c) mounting the flash off camera. The further your subject is away from the flash, the more "pin source" it appears and the more "cardboard cut out" the subject can become. Just experiment (and don't be afraid to try different zoom settings to get different qualities of light)
Obviously you'll only get wireless in a body that supports wireless with the pop-up (e.g. *ist-D, K10D, K20D, K200D, K7D). Other bodies that don't support wireless with the pop-up will require two AF360s... but then you probably knew that already
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 21/01/2010 - 11:03
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cardiff_gareth wrote:
So you can use a 360 in P-TTL off camera :
How does that work :
I know my Samsung GX10 supports wireless flash mode but didn't know the camera and flash sent info back and forth so P-TTL was still supported, I just thought it meant I could use the flash in manual output mode and the wireless just meant it would trigger the flash :
On the camera set flash mode to "W" (wireless) and in the custom menu choose whether the on-board flash is either "Master" (it contributes to the scene) or "Controller" (it acts as a trigger only).So you can use a 360 in P-TTL off camera :
How does that work :
I know my Samsung GX10 supports wireless flash mode but didn't know the camera and flash sent info back and forth so P-TTL was still supported, I just thought it meant I could use the flash in manual output mode and the wireless just meant it would trigger the flash :
On the flash set the protocol to "P-TTL", the on/off switch to the middle (slave) setting and the mode switch to the left hand Green symbol.
That's it! Now you have wireless P-TTL.
Joining the Q
Posted 21/01/2010 - 11:07
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By the way, you can *never* set the on board flash to manual output - it's permanently set to P-TTL mode. Hence you can't use it to trigger "dumb" slaves as the pre-flash (where the P-TTL info is exchanged) will always trigger them before the shutter has opened.
Joining the Q
Posted 21/01/2010 - 13:46
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Nope the Metz 48 can do it as well, but it's wireless is a bit crippled and you can only use it as slave and not as master or controller.
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42 posts
17 years
P-TTL. Also, if I shoot wirelessly .. do I go manual as well when using the zoom. Thanks for your help.