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Pentax K1 K1ii advice

Posted 29/12/2020 - 22:50 Link
I'm thinking of trading up from my K5iis and K5ii to a K1 or K1ii second hand, or new depending on budget at the time.
Before I do I would like some user in the field opinions of the cameras capabilities.
1) In particlular its wildlife capabilties in good and poor light.
2) How good is the auto focus when photographing birds in flight, animals on the move. Is it better than a K5iis
3) Will my Sigma AF 150-500 / 5,0-6,3 APO DG OS HSM work with it, do I need an adapter ring, will the image be cropped by much?
4) What is the general image quality like in comparison to a K5iis, is it worth the trade up expense.
RobL
Posted 29/12/2020 - 23:50 - Helpful Comment Link
I cannot compare with the K5IIs but I will say the image quality is excellent, with the qualification that it depends of course on the lens being used. The Sigma will give excellent results BUT you should check if the mount has been modified - if so it will have a chamfered edge; the original mount rubbed against the camera body overhang leaving a very slight mark.

You are comparing an APS-C sensor against an FF one so the subject will appear smaller, the APS-C crop in the K1/K1.II will only use about 16mp of the 36mp available so about the same as your K5:IIs which could be significant for wildlife shots. If wildlife is your main interest then maybe an APS-C body with a 24mp sensor like the K3 might serve you better, with the added bonus that it will take a teleconverter. However the K1/K1.II has better sensitivity meaning you can push the ISO up a bit and recovery of details from shadow areas is amazing so in poor light it will perform best. If you can get close enough to your subject the full frame option will amaze you with its sharpness and detail.

As for tracking I cannot compare, but the few times I have used it the results are ok, it’s really down to technique. However if wildlife is your primary subject matter then the forthcoming K3.III looks more promising with a 26.2 mp APS-C sensor and much improved focusing, depending of course on what it will cost.
Edited by RobL: 29/12/2020 - 23:54
Mike-P
Posted 30/12/2020 - 10:47 - Helpful Comment Link
I sold my K-5IIs (always said I would keep it no matter what as the IQ was outstanding IMO) a few months after buying the K-1 because in crop mode it basically IS a 15mp K-5IIs with a few more toys (Astrotracer, pixel shift, slightly better autofocus etc) plus you get the added bonus of full frame (superb IQ) at the turn of a knob..

Unfortunately full frame is where the K-1 falls down if you do birds in flight, airshows and certain wildlife because although the autofocus and tracking are marginally better than previous models the buffer and fps are truly terrible so I normally end up putting it into crop mode where they both improve somewhat ... but then if what you do 99% of the time is fast moving subjects you may as well keep the K-5IIs (or move over to another make).

Given what you are shooting personally I would wait for the K-3III or if that turns out to be too much money a used K-3II.
Posted 30/12/2020 - 11:43 - Helpful Comment Link
Mike-P wrote:
I sold my K-5IIs (always said I would keep it no matter what as the IQ was outstanding IMO) a few months after buying the K-1 because in crop mode it basically IS a 15mp K-5IIs with a few more toys (Astrotracer, pixel shift, slightly better autofocus etc) plus you get the added bonus of full frame (superb IQ) at the turn of a knob..

Unfortunately full frame is where the K-1 falls down if you do birds in flight, airshows and certain wildlife because although the autofocus and tracking are marginally better than previous models the buffer and fps are truly terrible so I normally end up putting it into crop mode where they both improve somewhat ... but then if what you do 99% of the time is fast moving subjects you may as well keep the K-5IIs (or move over to another make).

Given what you are shooting personally I would wait for the K-3III or if that turns out to be too much money a used K-3II.

Thanks for the very frank and helpful reply. I wonder have you or anyone had experience using a K3ii for birds in flight if so how good is its AF when tracking a bird?
Chrism8
Posted 30/12/2020 - 12:11 - Helpful Comment Link
All the below were shot with a K3ii using a sigma 100-300 F4 lens. birds increase in size as you scroll down

Its certainly possible to get decent bird in flight images, the larger the bird the better / easier it is, and you'll probably not get as many keepers as a Canikon shooter, and your overall technique has to be pretty good, back button focusing is a good tool to use.

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Chris

www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk

" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".

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K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8

Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8

K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Edited by Chrism8: 30/12/2020 - 12:12
Mike-P
Posted 30/12/2020 - 12:36 - Helpful Comment Link
A few with my K-3II when I had it ... but as Chris said with Pentax a lot of it is technique (along with a bit of luck). I have to say though, when shooting anything panning left to right Pentax isn't too bad at all, the letdown is anything coming towards you which you can pretty much give up on after the first shot.

I recently purchased a 7D MKII for just this purpose though, it is a lot easier.

150-450mm

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Tern with Fish 2 by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr

Sigma 50-500mm OS

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White Egret by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr

And just to show the K-1 can do it ... (both with 150-450mm)

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Red Kite - Llanddeusant Llangadog by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr

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Ukrainian Air Force Su-27P1M Flanker 58 by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr
Edited by Mike-P: 30/12/2020 - 12:42
Chrism8
Posted 30/12/2020 - 13:51 - Helpful Comment Link
I also agree with Mike, although I'd say skill rather than luck

Once the technique is obtained, mastering takes time and patience as well as plenty of lost images, its transferable across all Pentax models as well as other manufacturers, and I agree head on shots are more difficult, not impossible but therefore more pleasing when you do get it spot on.

The following images are K1 ( dragonfly + Hawk ( Aircraft ) and the incoming goose head on ) the K5ii the predecessor to the K3 ( Eurasian Eagle Owl ) and the bee in flight was with a 645z

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For me, getting the best from the equipment and myself is the challenge and the pleasure not necessarily how easy it is, there's compromises with any kit you choose.

All of these would have use back button focussing ( BBF )
Chris

www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk

" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".

-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8

Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8

K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Edited by Chrism8: 30/12/2020 - 14:01
Mike-P
Posted 30/12/2020 - 15:02 - Helpful Comment Link
Why have a dragonfly moving away when you can have one flying towards you though

K-3II and Sigma 50-500mm OS

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Southern Hawker Dragonfly - Blashford Lakes by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr

K-1 and 150-450mm

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Dragonflys by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr

Seriously though, I sound very anti Pentax sometimes but at the end of the day I much prefer the files from my Pentax gear and it's what I take out with me 90% of the time ... just wish it was 100%
Posted 30/12/2020 - 16:56 - Helpful Comment Link
Mike-P wrote:
Why have a dragonfly moving away when you can have one flying towards you though

K-3II and Sigma 50-500mm OS

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Southern Hawker Dragonfly - Blashford Lakes by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr

K-1 and 150-450mm

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Dragonflys by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr

Seriously though, I sound very anti Pentax sometimes but at the end of the day I much prefer the files from my Pentax gear and it's what I take out with me 90% of the time ... just wish it was 100%

I'm impress that gives me inspiration to look more towards a K3 probably a good second hand K3ii as that would be more in my price range. You have a knack with dragon flies that I haven't mastered yet. They move too erratically for me. New Year's Resolution. Must practice more.
Posted 19/02/2021 - 21:22 Link
Hi All
After the announcement of the K3 iii delay I decided it would be a long time before second hand K3 ii's came down in price so I took the plunge and bought one from ParkCameras. Just under 12000 clicks on the clock. Ordered yesterday afternoon and arrived 10am this morning, it appears in excellent condition. Except an annoying dust fleck on sensor but I eventually got rid of it with just a blower so didnt need to touch the sensor. I havent tried it in anger yet as the weather here has been grey n grim so I hope to go out tomorrow. I bought it to go on my Sigma 150-500 but I think it will make an excellent landscape camera. I've about got to grips with the settings plus the fact it has lost some buttons but gained dozens of functions/settings more than my K5ii/iis.
Images so far have been good but more noise at 6400 ISO and above than I had hoped. Some Youtubers suggest turning off Auto high ISO noise reduction, they say using custom settings helps. Anyone know if thats true?
Mike-P
Posted 20/02/2021 - 09:23 - Helpful Comment Link
First thing I do with a new camera is turn off everything that involves some sort of in camera processing because it slows down fps/af speed/read/write speed. Personally I think ISO 6400 is pushing any crop body, infact my K-1 is limited to 6400 except on rare occasions.

I have found the latest noise reduction programmes such as topaz and DXO (which I use for my processing) can help a lot with noise these days.

Enjoy your K-3II though, you will find it far better than the K-5 although it's a shame about the K-3 (III) although not entirely unexpected.
Chrism8
Posted 20/02/2021 - 11:56 - Helpful Comment Link
Agree with Mike-P as above, I use the plug in from Nik collection for cleaning up noise

I've run my K3ii @ ISO 3200 fairly often particularly with fast moving jets, the files are pretty good and do clean up in post, I though I'd run it higher but cant find any examples and again all in camera processing is turned off for the same reasons as Mike-P
Chris

www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk

" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".

-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8

Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8

K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 20/02/2021 - 19:50 Link
Hope I'm not going too far off the original topic but as I usually shoot in RAW which in camera settings have an effect on RAW files. Any advice gratefully recieved.
pschlute
Posted 20/02/2021 - 21:10 Link
davidrobinson wrote:
Hope I'm not going too far off the original topic but as I usually shoot in RAW which in camera settings have an effect on RAW files. Any advice gratefully recieved.

Simple answer is generally none.

What software do you process the raw files with ?

There will be some raw converters which read your jpeg camera settings and will apply some of those settings, or at least give you the option. But you can choose to ignore all these if you wish
Edited by pschlute: 20/02/2021 - 21:14
Mike-P
Posted 20/02/2021 - 21:17 Link
I'm pretty sure the lens correction data is written to the raw files which is why I have them switched off, they definately slow things down.

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