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K30 jpg very poor

cats_five
Posted 15/05/2013 - 08:36 Link
Getting the camera back to factory defaults may well help. So might finding some bright red cars to practise on! Also, are you using the histogram to check your exposure? If you don't need the underexposure you are better off without it.

At least those red cars look like they were parked up, so you could reshot if the histogram showed overexposure.

BTW I'm not sure if polarisers help with glare from cars - they do help with water and glass, I think I heard somewhere not with cars but I could be wrong. It might depend on the car as well - on it's paint and finish. Will see what happens with my modern car next time the sun shows it's face round here. It's not red but my neighbours have a red car.

Personally I shot RAW + a 2MB JPG.
Edited by cats_five: 15/05/2013 - 08:38
johnriley
Posted 15/05/2013 - 08:50 Link
Polarisers don't help with reflections from metal.
Best regards, John
Cuchulainn
Posted 15/05/2013 - 10:51 Link
True John, but the glare in the original pics shown is mostly from the paint, so a polariser would help here. Though only for one plane of the car (if you set it for the roof, then you'd actually have worse performance on the doors)
johnriley
Posted 15/05/2013 - 10:55 Link
Probably a bright overcast day would have been kindest! Even rain would have added something to the shot without compounding the difficulties.

I quite like shooting in the rain.
Best regards, John
George Lazarette
Posted 16/05/2013 - 00:16 Link
I am coming late to this, but it's worth remembering that John Riley learnt his trade with transparency film, which is totally unforgiving.

If you are able to expose every shot perfectly, then the main advantage of RAW (the ability to correct exposure errors) flies out of the window.

I use RAW because I am not quite so proficient.

G
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McGregNi
Posted 18/05/2013 - 14:00 Link
George Lazarette wrote:
If you are able to expose every shot perfectly, then the main advantage of RAW (the ability to correct exposure errors) flies out of the window.

I use RAW because I am not quite so proficient. G

I'm not so sure that RAW shooting should be portrayed as a 'get out clause' in regards perfect exposures. As I said earlier here, I would accept that RAW gives us much greater latitude over the midtone than before (compared to what was available to the slide shooters of old), and so for low contrast scenes then we could be a bit casual with it.

The big advantage I see, exposure-wise, would be the additional control at the extremes, where there is a high DR, so we can pull up shadows or reduce highlights and retain better quality looking textures and tones in those 'reclaimed' areas.

In these high DR situations, fine exposure control can be critical (if only making use of a single frame) because you will have to judge where the priorities are for your processing 'reclaiming' to come, and adjust the mid tone exposure to suit.

I should add, for my definition, a 'high dynamic range scene' would normally include almost any outdoor 'scene' in most weathers.
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padmk3
Posted 20/05/2013 - 14:24 Link
I'm not sure if anyone has already mentioned this but as standard the K5 processes it's JPEG's in a 'Bright' setting which is known to be too punchy for some and blow out reds. When shooting in JPEG my K5's JPEG setting is always set to 'Natural' which can be a bit flat for some but with minimal post processing can be given some oomph without resulting in unnatural colours. I also always have -0.5EV dialed in as standard too.

I agree that for ultimate control RAW is best but for less important shots I use JPEG's so I'm not chained to the PC for hours.....

Pat
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