K20D Which Lens Please
Do you have a copy of the manual? If not, an electronic version is available.
Why have you been 'forced' to set the WB to auto?
One obvious difference between the K10D and the K20D is the sensor; the K10D has a 10.2MP CCD sensor, the K20D a 14.6MP CMOS sensor. You will notice a difference between the two, not least because of the resolution and technology.
Getting the best out of a camera is a really personal thing. The K20D does tend to under expose, so you may wish to tweak the exposure settings slightly, and if you don't normally do so, shoot in RAW so you can PP yours shots to your liking. I have mine set for RAW+(JPEG).
thanks
Also, it's worth a search in this Forum, as I remember reading a few posts a couple of years ago covering the same topic; there were a number of suggestions for setting up the K20D for people like yourself who were moving up from earlier cameras with CCD sensors. You say you don't like the image quality. Fair enough, but what it is exactly that you don't like?
Interestingly, there are a number of fans of the older CCD sensors who prefer the rendition of the colours, etc.
Just to repeat, try shooting in RAW and adjsuting in PP. This will bypass all the default settings in-camera.
Also, you say you recently acquired this camera. Try re-setting it to defaults; who knows how the previous owner set it up.
If you are shooting mainly in manual mode - are you applying the same settings in the K20 as you do for the K10? If so - this could be the problem.
It could be that you are applying the settings that you know get the best from the K10 but the K20 may require slightly different settings.
For instance they may handle exposure slightly differently - you may need to adjust the settings in the K20 by +/- 1/3rd EV for instance. My old K20 always used to underexpose by at least 1/3 EV.
Not saying this is the problem - just an example of the sort of thing that may be different.
I suggest you test them side by side using fully auto setting in both and see what happens - do they give the same readings on the display? Use this as a start point and then it is just trial and error.
I can not think of any reason why these lenses would give better IQ on a K10 than a K20 - so to me it must be settings or a problem with the camera
I have to say that I have previously owned the 10 and 20 and the 20 definitely delivered better results. Although I tend to only rarely use fully manual - if I want to work fully manually I stick to film - I want to utilise all of that expensive technology I have paid for
Carl
a) the K20D remains one of the most popular DSLRs yet. There is some truth in the saying "you are buying someones reject on e(vil)Bay), if you have bought yours "pre-ownwed". Do it could be defective. It is far superior to the K10D and totally a different machine though looking exactly similar - very deceptive. As someone said above RESET the camera for all Menu options. Check the sensor for dust and dead pixels - read the online Manual.
b) JPEG Setting for the Sigma 70-300 APO: not a very sharp lens, so set it to Bright, Sharpness +3 Fine, Contrast to +2, Hue and Saturation 0 - use Fn button. Set ISO to Auto but between 100 to 800 ISO. WB Auto. Metering Mode Matrix. Auto Focus Point Center. lens Auto Focus System AF-S. Shake Reduction ON. Please use Av or Tv mode to start with so that you do not have too much variable to adjust as in M mode - please follow this to begin with. Set the JPEG Resolution and Quality to the Highest - Recording Mode menu. Link AF Point & AE, AE-L with AF Locked. Slow Shutter Speed NR to Default. High ISO Noise Reduction to OFF.
c) Do not use Live View for photo taking - crude on the K20D.
Take some photos at the 70 to 100 mm end on your Sigma 70-300 APO, both hand held and on a tripod - suggest use a large multi colored toy on your terrace for good sunshine.Post the photos here. Good Luck.
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