I know nothing about photography but I've bought an LX. Help!
Posted 13/12/2013 - 18:24
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BrixtonNick wrote:
So...I bought a used KR..it arrived today and it works! So now I can take a digital shot whenever I take a film one....that's got to be a good way to learn? I didn't think I could afford a DSLR, but I came across an ineptly listed one on ebay and was the only bidder...I also got a cornucopia of good-as-new accessories...a £60 Hahnel tripod, a £40 BlackRapid sling, a Pentax shoulder bag, AA battery adapter, a £27 Neewer TT560 flash, infra red remote, Neewer .45x wide angle lens and even a 4 GB SD card. Total price fifty quid plus postage.
So...I bought a used KR..it arrived today and it works! So now I can take a digital shot whenever I take a film one....that's got to be a good way to learn? I didn't think I could afford a DSLR, but I came across an ineptly listed one on ebay and was the only bidder...I also got a cornucopia of good-as-new accessories...a £60 Hahnel tripod, a £40 BlackRapid sling, a Pentax shoulder bag, AA battery adapter, a £27 Neewer TT560 flash, infra red remote, Neewer .45x wide angle lens and even a 4 GB SD card. Total price fifty quid plus postage.
50 quid? Not even another eight for the fruit bat?
That is amazing. Running digital in parallel with film will also be amazing.
Just two things:
1. If you renege on your determination to do film and end up learning loads more with the K-R, you have to come back and 'fess up
2. (More seriously ) Exposure is different between film and digital. Although the principles are the same, in practice it's hard to ruin a sky with a bit of overexposure on film, whereas it's almost impossible not to on digital. As I expect you'll discover, if you have dark foreground and bright background, on film you can expose for the foreground and still end up with reasonable sky. However, if you do that with digital, the foreground will be Ok, but the sky will be a vile mix of bands of white and cyan, which ruins the whole shot. So on digital you need to expose less than you think, and then do what you can to recover the shadow detail on the computer.
Don't worry if this means nothing at this stage, you'll run into it soon enough.
Do keep us posted though - sounds like the beginning of a fascinating journey for you.
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Posted 13/12/2013 - 18:29
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Thanks, I'm sure that tip will help reduce my initial bafflement. But...what the hell is a fruit bat??
Posted 13/12/2013 - 18:40
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Posted 13/12/2013 - 18:41
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BrixtonNick wrote:
Thanks, I'm sure that tip will help reduce my initial bafflement. But...what the hell is a fruit bat??
Thanks, I'm sure that tip will help reduce my initial bafflement. But...what the hell is a fruit bat??
I have no idea, but it's a quote from a Monty Python sketch, where John Cleese was charged 60 quid (plus eight for the fruit bat) for a cat licence.
Script here... sketch here.
You did ask...
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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