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how to use a Tamron 500mm mirror lens

Posted 01/09/2010 - 14:09 Link
I just got me a 2nd-hand mirror lens for use with my K-7. I was under the impression I only had to set aperture to F8 and shoot. Alas, no. The LCD screen shows F---- and the camera refuses to take the picture in any mode. Does anybody know of a work-around for this?

Grts
Hendrik
Cayman
Posted 01/09/2010 - 14:19 - Helpful Comment Link
The following may work: try setting the camera to "allow aperture ring". Then put in manual mode and press the green button.
Cuchulainn
Posted 01/09/2010 - 14:35 - Helpful Comment Link
You need to set the custom setting "Allow aperture ring" to "enabled" in the options menu. Then you can just shoot in A mode.
Posted 01/09/2010 - 14:42 Link
thks. I wasn't aware of this menu-item
JonSchick
Posted 01/09/2010 - 15:21 Link
For a single aperture lens such as the Tamron mirror, there is no need to enable the aperture ring (there isn't one) and the viewfinder will always read f-- whatever you do.

However, you can still use the camera in Av mode, and it will meter in any case (the same as it would with a normal lens when it is wide open, which effectively is what the Tamron always is). You may find a little bit of exposure compensation may be required, so check the histograms etc after you've taken a few test images.

I have one of these lenses and they are capable of very good results when used with care. A few hints (sorry if this is all old hat):

(1) always use the lens hood in order to maximise contrast with mirror lens

(2) shoot RAW not JPEG to give best file to work with afterwards

(3) avoid scenes with bright highlights close to your subject/in the background - as these are the ones that are most likely to give you the characteristically busy mirror lens donut bokeh

(4) do not be tempted to hand hold it unless you are very steady! I know it is small and compact but your percentage of truly sharp shots will not be great unless you up the ISO to get fast shutter speeds.... not something you really want to do with the K-7

(5) instead, I recommend using it with a lightweight monopod, and leave the shake reduction switched on. This works for me very well - down to about 1/125 second at a push - with a Manfrotto Modo monopod that cost around £20

(6) the "catch in focus" feature that Pentax (and Nikon) offers, can be very handy with the mirror lens - as long as your subject is in the centre of the frame (more likely with a very long lens than with a wide angle). For this to work, you need to ignore Cardiff Gareth's advice above!! Instead, leave the camera in AF and the lens marginally out of focus before taking the shot. Next, press the shutter and then very slowly fine tune the focus of the lens.... as soon as you get it bang on, the camera will take the shot.

Hope this lot helps. Many people give up on mirror lenses, and they certainly have their quirks and drawbacks. But used carefully and with the right subject matter (which basically means "not moving" and "not close to anything that might cause nasty bokeh"), they can really deliver. And there is nothing else to compete at anything near the same price.

Cheers,

Jon
Jon

Some occasional random stuff at The Photographers Block: link
johnriley
Posted 01/09/2010 - 15:35 Link
IIRC if you son't enable use of aperture ring then the camera will not fire, even with a fixed aperture mirror lens.
Best regards, John
JonSchick
Posted 01/09/2010 - 16:40 Link
Oops sorry, absolutely right. Other than that, I think the rest of what I posted still stands though! And to whet your appetite, here's one of my Tamron shots:

Comment Image
Comment Image


Jon
Jon

Some occasional random stuff at The Photographers Block: link
Posted 01/09/2010 - 18:08 Link
Indeed. Can I leave "aperture ring enabled" on all the time?

rgds
Hendrik
johnriley
Posted 01/09/2010 - 18:15 Link
Yes, there's no problem leaving it activated.
Best regards, John
thoramay
Posted 01/09/2010 - 18:22 Link
Jon. Does all this advice also apply to the pentax 400-600 lens. I always use a tripod but am somewhat nervous of this beast.
regards thoramay
johnriley
Posted 01/09/2010 - 18:42 Link
The Pentax 400-600mm needs activation of the aperture ring to work. Now the aperture changes on this lens, despite it being a fixed aperture physically, simply because it zooms whilst the glass of course remains the same size. It's an optical effect.
Best regards, John
JonSchick
Posted 01/09/2010 - 21:28 Link
Hi Gareth - absolutely agree with you for most MF primes, but the Tamron 500mm can be a pig to focus when you don't have a nice bright full frame viewfinder! At f8 the viewfinder isn't exactly bright, and the depth of field is miniscule. I find the camera does a better job than me most of the time with this particular lens, but I don't bother with catch in focus when using more "normal" primes, for the reasons you state.

Cheers,

Jon
Jon

Some occasional random stuff at The Photographers Block: link
JonSchick
Posted 01/09/2010 - 21:32 Link
thoramay wrote:
Jon. Does all this advice also apply to the pentax 400-600 lens. I always use a tripod but am somewhat nervous of this beast.
regards thoramay

I think it probably would... I've seen one of those lenses once, and it looked very nice (if rather out of my price range when you get one in good nick!). Oddly enough, I think it was Daniel from this forum who used it handheld and got a half way decent shot! I think the bottom line with long mirrors is to use slowly and with care, and I suspect the Pentax 400-600 is capable of providing excellent results.
Jon

Some occasional random stuff at The Photographers Block: link
womble
Posted 01/09/2010 - 23:35 Link
As regards manual focusing, I have found that using a katzeye split screen has utterly changed how I use my K20 and hugely improved my percentage of in-focus shots. I'll readily opt for manual focusing now whereas with a standard blank screen I'd prefer to gamble with the AF. I wish I had bought one much sooner, a very worthwhile investment.

K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
petrochemist
Posted 02/09/2010 - 00:47 Link
JonSchick wrote:
But used carefully and with the right subject matter (which basically means "not moving"

I've got some good results with my 500 mirror at a motor racing event. Moving is fine as long as its predictable, Focus carefully in advance & wait for the action to reach that spot. (The green hexagon helps confirm focus even in MF)

Certainly I found when someone came off into the gravel, they rapidly moved out of focus - I've got a rapid sequence of a sidecar spinning off into the dirt, which is somewhat let down by getting progressively softer

DOF can't have been more than about a handful of meters, judging by some of the pictures of the pack coming round the bend...
Mike
.
Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.

.[size=11:].FlickrWPFPanoramio
Edited by petrochemist: 02/09/2010 - 00:47

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