How to fitting VIVITAR 28-200mm f3.5/5.3 MC MACRO PK/PK-A Lens to Pentax K-r?
84 posts
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Posted 01/09/2012 - 10:58
You've lost me a little. If the lens is PK-A, no adapter is required.
Can't help wondering if the lens was described incorrectly on ebay.
Can't help wondering if the lens was described incorrectly on ebay.
2,244 posts
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Posted 01/09/2012 - 10:59
Can you provide a link to the ebay page please?
13 posts
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Posted 01/09/2012 - 11:07
Here we are:
VIVITAR 28-200mm f3.5/5.3 MC MACRO FOCUSSING ZOOM LENS Pentax PK/PK-A Fitting.
That's why I don't understand it. I tried it, but it doesn't work.
Pentax K-r, Pentax SMC DA AF 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL, Tokina SD 28-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 MF Japan, HELIOS-44M-4 58mm F2 M42, Velbon CX 440
PENTAX DA-L DAL 55-300mm F/4-5.8, YONGNUO YN-560 II Flashgun
VIVITAR 28-200mm f3.5/5.3 MC MACRO FOCUSSING ZOOM LENS Pentax PK/PK-A Fitting.
That's why I don't understand it. I tried it, but it doesn't work.
Pentax K-r, Pentax SMC DA AF 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL, Tokina SD 28-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 MF Japan, HELIOS-44M-4 58mm F2 M42, Velbon CX 440
PENTAX DA-L DAL 55-300mm F/4-5.8, YONGNUO YN-560 II Flashgun
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Posted 01/09/2012 - 11:18
You will have to reduce the length of the light guard beside the aperture lever.
Cut it down to match the Pentax one. Also remove the Richo pin if it has one (my one did)
You will have to remove the ring for cutting to avoid grinding particles getting into the lens, it is not difficult to do.
Jim
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Cut it down to match the Pentax one. Also remove the Richo pin if it has one (my one did)
You will have to remove the ring for cutting to avoid grinding particles getting into the lens, it is not difficult to do.
Jim
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Posted 01/09/2012 - 11:21
The lens has an extended flange at the back. You can see it in the third picture. I had a Vivitar with the same problem. While it mounts ok on an older film camera (pre-AF) it will damage the inside of the mount on a DSLR because the extended flange hits what are now the SDM contacts (formerly power-zoom contacts). Below is a picture of my lens with the extended portion removed.
You need to remove the black inner part of the metal mount to avoid damaging the optics, and cut the excess flange off with a hacksaw or similar. Alternatively, you can remove this part and leave it off, but it leaves the optics open to dust and the aperture lever unprotected from damage from impacts.
Good luck
Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3 & K200D, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Helpful
You need to remove the black inner part of the metal mount to avoid damaging the optics, and cut the excess flange off with a hacksaw or similar. Alternatively, you can remove this part and leave it off, but it leaves the optics open to dust and the aperture lever unprotected from damage from impacts.
Good luck
Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3 & K200D, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Helpful
Link
Posted 01/09/2012 - 12:51
Jonathan-Mac wrote:
The lens has an extended flange at the back. You can see it in the third picture. I had a Vivitar with the same problem. While it mounts ok on an older film camera (pre-AF) it will damage the inside of the mount on a DSLR because the extended flange hits what are now the SDM contacts (formerly power-zoom contacts). Below is a picture of my lens with the extended portion removed.
You need to remove the black inner part of the metal mount to avoid damaging the optics, and cut the excess flange off with a hacksaw or similar. Alternatively, you can remove this part and leave it off, but it leaves the optics open to dust and the aperture lever unprotected from damage from impacts.
Good luck
The lens has an extended flange at the back. You can see it in the third picture. I had a Vivitar with the same problem. While it mounts ok on an older film camera (pre-AF) it will damage the inside of the mount on a DSLR because the extended flange hits what are now the SDM contacts (formerly power-zoom contacts). Below is a picture of my lens with the extended portion removed.
You need to remove the black inner part of the metal mount to avoid damaging the optics, and cut the excess flange off with a hacksaw or similar. Alternatively, you can remove this part and leave it off, but it leaves the optics open to dust and the aperture lever unprotected from damage from impacts.
Good luck
If I remove those two screws, can I change it? Can I buy the right one for me? I would not want to cut it.
How do you call this part? Thanks!
Pentax K-r, Pentax SMC DA AF 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL, Tokina SD 28-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 MF Japan, HELIOS-44M-4 58mm F2 M42, Velbon CX 440
PENTAX DA-L DAL 55-300mm F/4-5.8, YONGNUO YN-560 II Flashgun
Last Edited by voneout on 01/09/2012 - 12:54
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Posted 01/09/2012 - 21:43
I had a similar problem with an old P/KA mount lens which also had the extended flange.
If you are careful you do NOT need to dismatle the lens to fix it !
I made a circular seal from thick card to stop filings getting into the optics.
Just cut a small circle (which you estimate to be a little bigger than the rear element) from paper then try it for size.
Once you have the right size cut a very slightly bigger circle from thick card and 'roll' the edges to soften them. You will then find you can push the seal over the rear element to make an effectice dust seal.
I then cut the flange to match a Pentax DAL lens. I used a thin needle file like a small saw, first downwards then along the side to weaken it and it then snapped off easily. Then simply smooth off the edges with the needle file.
Carefully remove ALL of the swarf and THEN remove the card seal (pick it out with a small spike, pin or needle)- job done !
Good luck
Peter
Helpful
If you are careful you do NOT need to dismatle the lens to fix it !
I made a circular seal from thick card to stop filings getting into the optics.
Just cut a small circle (which you estimate to be a little bigger than the rear element) from paper then try it for size.
Once you have the right size cut a very slightly bigger circle from thick card and 'roll' the edges to soften them. You will then find you can push the seal over the rear element to make an effectice dust seal.
I then cut the flange to match a Pentax DAL lens. I used a thin needle file like a small saw, first downwards then along the side to weaken it and it then snapped off easily. Then simply smooth off the edges with the needle file.
Carefully remove ALL of the swarf and THEN remove the card seal (pick it out with a small spike, pin or needle)- job done !
Good luck
Peter
Last Edited by PeterKR on 01/09/2012 - 21:44
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Posted 02/09/2012 - 11:10
PeterKR wrote:
I had a similar problem with an old P/KA mount lens which also had the extended flange.
If you are careful you do NOT need to dismatle the lens to fix it !
I made a circular seal from thick card to stop filings getting into the optics.
Just cut a small circle (which you estimate to be a little bigger than the rear element) from paper then try it for size.
Once you have the right size cut a very slightly bigger circle from thick card and 'roll' the edges to soften them. You will then find you can push the seal over the rear element to make an effectice dust seal.
I then cut the flange to match a Pentax DAL lens. I used a thin needle file like a small saw, first downwards then along the side to weaken it and it then snapped off easily. Then simply smooth off the edges with the needle file.
Carefully remove ALL of the swarf and THEN remove the card seal (pick it out with a small spike, pin or needle)- job done !
Good luck
Peter
I had a similar problem with an old P/KA mount lens which also had the extended flange.
If you are careful you do NOT need to dismatle the lens to fix it !
I made a circular seal from thick card to stop filings getting into the optics.
Just cut a small circle (which you estimate to be a little bigger than the rear element) from paper then try it for size.
Once you have the right size cut a very slightly bigger circle from thick card and 'roll' the edges to soften them. You will then find you can push the seal over the rear element to make an effectice dust seal.
I then cut the flange to match a Pentax DAL lens. I used a thin needle file like a small saw, first downwards then along the side to weaken it and it then snapped off easily. Then simply smooth off the edges with the needle file.
Carefully remove ALL of the swarf and THEN remove the card seal (pick it out with a small spike, pin or needle)- job done !
Good luck
Peter
Could you put the picture to here about your job?
Pentax K-r, Pentax SMC DA AF 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL, Tokina SD 28-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 MF Japan, HELIOS-44M-4 58mm F2 M42, Velbon CX 440
PENTAX DA-L DAL 55-300mm F/4-5.8, YONGNUO YN-560 II Flashgun
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Posted 02/09/2012 - 11:33
You can mask off the rear of the lens with just masking tape.
Anywhere there are gaps that you can't get masking tape just
seal with pieces of thick string/twine pushed in and carefully
removed afterwards.
You will need a Dremel to cut the metal off.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Anywhere there are gaps that you can't get masking tape just
seal with pieces of thick string/twine pushed in and carefully
removed afterwards.
You will need a Dremel to cut the metal off.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Link
Posted 02/09/2012 - 12:14
Algernon wrote:
You can mask off the rear of the lens with just masking tape.
Anywhere there are gaps that you can't get masking tape just
seal with pieces of thick string/twine pushed in and carefully
removed afterwards.
You will need a Dremel to cut the metal off.
You can mask off the rear of the lens with just masking tape.
Anywhere there are gaps that you can't get masking tape just
seal with pieces of thick string/twine pushed in and carefully
removed afterwards.
You will need a Dremel to cut the metal off.
This will work but you might get adhesive from the masking tape stuck to the rear element.
If you can cut a card ring as I suggested there is no problem.
Also, if you don't have a Dremel there's no need to pay out for one. A cheap set of needle files from Screwfix or Toolstation will do the job.
Firstly mark the flange area to be removed with a soft pencil or scriber (sharp point)
Select a file that is a very narrow triangular shape and it can be used to saw down, making a narrow 'V' slot.
Then use it sideways to cut a groove around the flange and you'll find the unwanted bit snaps off easily.
Then just 'RASE',(Remove All Sharp Edges) as they used to say on engineering drawings.
Good luck
Peter
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Posted 02/09/2012 - 12:18
Sorry I should have mentioned the rear element needs covering
with a non sticky material such as a card disc.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
with a non sticky material such as a card disc.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Link
Posted 02/09/2012 - 15:21
Debris is not the only risk to the rear element. If the saw slips, it could cause damage despite any card or plastic placed over it.
Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3 & K200D, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3 & K200D, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Link
Posted 13/09/2012 - 21:04
It's done! 
Cost:
A Dremel clone from Aldi: 8pounds
HILKA 15pc PRECISION SCREWDRIVER SET from eBay: 9.97pounds
Thanks for helps!
Pentax K-r, Pentax SMC DA AF 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL, Tokina SD 28-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 MF Japan, HELIOS-44M-4 58mm F2 M42, Velbon CX 440
PENTAX DA-L DAL 55-300mm F/4-5.8, YONGNUO YN-560 II Flashgun
Cost:
A Dremel clone from Aldi: 8pounds
HILKA 15pc PRECISION SCREWDRIVER SET from eBay: 9.97pounds
Thanks for helps!
Pentax K-r, Pentax SMC DA AF 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL, Tokina SD 28-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 MF Japan, HELIOS-44M-4 58mm F2 M42, Velbon CX 440
PENTAX DA-L DAL 55-300mm F/4-5.8, YONGNUO YN-560 II Flashgun
Link
Posted 13/09/2012 - 21:28
Hi, again.
Glad you managed to trim the unwanted material away.
However - BEWARE !
I just noticed 2 things !
1) The lens is marked P/KA R P/K.
This would suggest that the 'R' indicates a RICOH fit !
2) This means the flange has a special extra for the Ricoh cameras. Whilst this is normally a small PIN which may or may not lock solid onto a K-r (BIG problem) I noticed what appears to be a small leaf spring (see near the top of your photo just above the red circle)
This might also lock onto the K-r so should be removed !
Look at one of your genuine Pentax lenses and you will see what I mean.
I hope you have NOT already tried the lens and found a problem ?
Peter
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voneout
Member
Aylesbury UK
I bought it few day ago (eBay) and i would like to use it with my Pentax K-r camera. Which one adapter ring needs for it? Thanks for help!
Pentax K-r, Pentax SMC DA AF 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL, Tokina SD 28-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 MF Japan, HELIOS-44M-4 58mm F2 M42, Velbon CX 440
PENTAX DA-L DAL 55-300mm F/4-5.8, YONGNUO YN-560 II Flashgun