HandCrafters

Here is another series from this month. I went to a handcrafters fair in an old cloister nearby.

1. Blacksmith I



2. Blacksmith II



3. Ropemaker I



4. Ropemaker II



5. Papermaker

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How inappropriate to call this planet earth when it is quite clearly Ocean. - Arthur C. Clarke
Prieni's PPG page

Very good detail and nice exposures... What kind if colour toning are you doing here, it looks like a kind of duo style? And what software was used? No 4 needs a bit more low-tone contrast in the shadows I feel, and perhaps a slight drop in exposure overall.

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My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver

I very much like the processing of these - the muted colours really suit the subjects. The first and third are my pick - beautifully composed.

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Tim

Some of my vaguely better stuff

Thanks guys!

McGregNi, it's not toning but just desaturation. It's mainly two layers involved, the straight shot and a HDR'ed version (I'm using SNS-HDR but don't think it matters too much which software is used - the further processing is done in Photoshop). Depending on the shot I might copy the original photo and use a soft light layer mode on that (and adjusting the brightness of that layer to suit) before adding the HDR layer, usually using normal layer mode and tuning opacity down.
Next I'm using a channel-mixer layer for the mono conversion (it allows you to adjust the different colours a bit differently - if the gradation is as you like then you might as well use hue/saturation and just desaturate). The opacity on that layer is taken back a bit to make the original colours appear.
Usually a vignette is added by using a gradient from transparent (middle) to black using soft light layer mode and adjusting opacity again. Sounds all more complicated than it is.

On #4: Yes, I see what you mean, especially when comparing it to #3. I'm torn between the contrast of the shadows (better in #3) and the detail on the shirt in the arms shadow (nicer in #4). But I guess I could adjust it to be a bit darker and still retain the texture of the shirt.

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How inappropriate to call this planet earth when it is quite clearly Ocean. - Arthur C. Clarke
Prieni's PPG page

+1 - really lovely composition.

Phil

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K-5iiS; K-r; ME Super; ME; DA* 16-50 f2.8; DA 18-135 WR; DA 55-300 WR; HD DA 15mm F4 ED AL Limited; FA 50mm f1.4; A50mm f1.7; DAL 18-55mm; M40mm f2.8; + assorted non-Pentax lenses

My Flikr Page link

A lovely set of images, very easy on the eye. These are so well processed, in sympathy with the subject matter and this for me makes them stand out from the crowd. They are also very expertly shot, all in all a wonderful set.

Regards
David

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Flickr

Nicola's Apartments, Kassiopi, Corfu

Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs

Very effective set, and good to see a close up view concentrating on the craft rather than the person

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Alan


PPG
Flickr

Great subjects, beautifully shot and sympathetically processed.

Thanks for giving the information on the processing; very interesting.

Yes, thanks for that detail, the approach has worked very well

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My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver