Glasses with transition lenses.
Posted 22/01/2013 - 11:41
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I also wear glasses with transition lenses but I take them off when I'm photographing and let the autofocus do the work.
Pentax K1-ii and MZ6
Pentax Lenses 28-80 F, 300 DA*, 80-200 F, 35 F2.4 AL, M50 F1.7, 28-105 DFA, 20 F4 SMC
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Pentax Lenses 28-80 F, 300 DA*, 80-200 F, 35 F2.4 AL, M50 F1.7, 28-105 DFA, 20 F4 SMC
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Posted 22/01/2013 - 11:43
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For this sort of reason I use two pairs of glasses - one for distance, one for computer/reading. Either pair can be used for photography by adjusting the dioptre correction of the viewfinder.
Best regards, John
Posted 22/01/2013 - 11:49 - Helpful Comment
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Quote:
I also wear glasses with transition lenses but I take them off when I'm photographing and let the autofocus do the work
This makes sense, however I am near sighted and anything past about 5m looks like a blur to me. No way I can see small objects at a distance.I also wear glasses with transition lenses but I take them off when I'm photographing and let the autofocus do the work
Regards, Horst
Posted 22/01/2013 - 12:01
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Horst wrote:
Regards, Horst
Pentax do a replacement dioptre with a larger adjustment range ,twice that of the standard one, but being Pentax it is probably very expensive but would sort out the problem
Quote:
I also wear glasses with transition lenses but I take them off when I'm photographing and let the autofocus do the work
This makes sense, however I am near sighted and anything past about 5m looks like a blur to me. No way I can see small objects ay a distance.I also wear glasses with transition lenses but I take them off when I'm photographing and let the autofocus do the work
Regards, Horst
Posted 22/01/2013 - 12:08
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Quote:
For this sort of reason I use two pairs of glasses - one for distance, one for computer/reading. Either pair can be used for photography by adjusting the dioptre correction of the viewfinder.
Best regards,John
Hi John,For this sort of reason I use two pairs of glasses - one for distance, one for computer/reading. Either pair can be used for photography by adjusting the dioptre correction of the viewfinder.
Best regards,John
this does not solve the problem with the transition glasses.
Also my glasses are Bi-Focal. So I don’t have to have 2 sets of glasses.
Also the same problem arises when near focussing.
I just wonder if a filter is on the marked which changes , when subjected to UV light. I would say this may solve the problem.
At least the lens would see the same as I see in the viewfinder,
Regards, Horst
Posted 22/01/2013 - 12:25
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Horst wrote:
This is a problem, because I only have glasses with transition lenses. It looks like I need a pair of glasses with just normal lenses to see it like the lens sees it. I am sure, I wouldn't have taken some pictures, if I’ve seen how they really looked. Often to bright and washed out.
Regards, Horst
I don't really understand this. It is obvious that if our specs turn darker, what we see through the viewfinder will be darker. But, if using the camera's meter for the exposure (adjusting if necessary, e.g. for a backlit subject), I would have thought that the image should turn out OK? This is a problem, because I only have glasses with transition lenses. It looks like I need a pair of glasses with just normal lenses to see it like the lens sees it. I am sure, I wouldn't have taken some pictures, if I’ve seen how they really looked. Often to bright and washed out.
Regards, Horst
Philip
Posted 22/01/2013 - 12:40
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You are of course correct Philip.
However my problem is, that what I see in the viewfinder is slightly different to how the picture turns out.
However now that I figured out, what the problem is, I can take this in to account.
What I really had in mind was to make others aware of this.
Regards, Horst
However my problem is, that what I see in the viewfinder is slightly different to how the picture turns out.
However now that I figured out, what the problem is, I can take this in to account.
What I really had in mind was to make others aware of this.
Regards, Horst
Posted 22/01/2013 - 13:14
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Hi all,
Blind as a bat without my specs!
I wear transition lenses and the trade off from having less watery eyes more than makes up for a slightly darker view finder.I went for the more neutral grey tint than the green or brown ones.
Mind you I am red green colour blind like many males
Blind as a bat without my specs!
I wear transition lenses and the trade off from having less watery eyes more than makes up for a slightly darker view finder.I went for the more neutral grey tint than the green or brown ones.
Mind you I am red green colour blind like many males
Posted 22/01/2013 - 14:13
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Having just read this thread (I'm having a rather rare lull here at work), I was wondering if the answer perhaps lies in having a local optician making a transition lens filter, either by coating a pre-existing filter, or more likely, shaping and mounting an actual transitions optical lens into the ring of an old (scratched/broken) filter ring? Although this might be prohibitively expensive, it surely cannot cost that much more than having a pair of prescription specs made with the same lenses. I'm thinking along the lines of say, £90 for a pair of specs, and a similar price for the optician to make and mount a single transitions lens into an old filter ring.
Posted 22/01/2013 - 14:36
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SHOULD HAVE GONE TO SPECSAVERS!. Buy one pair second pair same prescription free or at least cheaper. Both pairs Varilux for distance and reading. One pair clear for use in winter and indoors. One pair Reactolight (transition) for use in summer or winter sunshine. All Pentax lenses. I have the light gray colour and prefer it to the brown ones which I have had in the pAST. PROBLEM SOLVED.
CHEERS Vic.
CHEERS Vic.
Born again biker with lots of Pentax bits. Every day I wake up is a good day. I'm so old I don't even buy green bananas.
Posted 22/01/2013 - 15:01
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I think I've misunderstood the original question and had the wrong idea as to what "transition" lenses are. I poresume these are reactolite, not varifocals with no clear transition point bewteen near and far prescriptions?
Assuming that's the case, I have been using Carl Zeiss Umbramatic lenses for many years. Two element, so no darkening towards the edges, grey so as not to disturb colour perception, multi-coated. These don't seem to be a problem in any light. Perhaps they adjust very quickly.
Assuming that's the case, I have been using Carl Zeiss Umbramatic lenses for many years. Two element, so no darkening towards the edges, grey so as not to disturb colour perception, multi-coated. These don't seem to be a problem in any light. Perhaps they adjust very quickly.
Best regards, John
Posted 22/01/2013 - 15:08
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Hi, 'Transitions' are a trade name like 'Reactolite'. Mine are a coating added to the outer surface of my Essilor (Varilux) varifocals. There is no variation across the lens but they are quicker to react than the old days. I think the use of grey tint is a big factor in avoiding the posters issue.
Posted 22/01/2013 - 15:11
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You're right John. My reactolite specs are perfect and work for all light. It's just that I like to have a spare pair so I have them clear.
Both are of course Varilux (varifocals).
CHEERS Vic.
Both are of course Varilux (varifocals).
CHEERS Vic.
Born again biker with lots of Pentax bits. Every day I wake up is a good day. I'm so old I don't even buy green bananas.
Posted 23/01/2013 - 10:07
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I also have transitions lenses in my glasses for short sight.
To view colours, screens etc. 'undarkened' I simply take my glasses off ( up onto head etc.) and hold said item close to my eyes where I can see them fine & naturally.
Am I missing some reason Horst you can't do this rather than have to phaff about with second pairs of glasses etc.?
If you were long sighted etc. it wouldn't work clearly.
To view colours, screens etc. 'undarkened' I simply take my glasses off ( up onto head etc.) and hold said item close to my eyes where I can see them fine & naturally.
Am I missing some reason Horst you can't do this rather than have to phaff about with second pairs of glasses etc.?
If you were long sighted etc. it wouldn't work clearly.
Sharon's: K-x, FA35/2, DA 18-250.Glen's: K10D, DA100 Macro, 55-300, Paragon 500, Silk Pro700 Tripod
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584 posts
14 years
Melbourne,
Victoria
When photographing in sunlight, specially in bright sunlight, I noticed when looking through the viewfinder of the K5, it always looked more contrasting and the colours, especially the greens looked more saturated then later when I downloaded the pictures to the computer.
However when taking pictures late afternoon and evening, the problem disappeared.
It took me a while to figure out, the reason for this was not the camera or the lens, but my specs which turned very dark when a lot of UV existed.
This is a problem, because I only have glasses with transition lenses.
It looks like I need a pair of glasses with just normal lenses to see it like the lens sees it. I am sure, I wouldn't have taken some pictures, if I’ve seen how they really looked. Often to bright and washed out.
I thought I mention this, in case someone else has the same problem
Regards, Horst