FRUSTRATED! - sigma DG 150 -500mm APO HSM
1,048 posts
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Posted 10/05/2015 - 08:57
Are you hand-holding or using a tripod/monopod?
What shutter speed/ aperture are you using?
I had this lens with a K50 and it was absolutely well it was good. Sadly I no longer have either.
I found that if I shot at ISO 400 and f8 I could hand hold at the long end at about 1/400 maybe on a good day 1/250.
David
What shutter speed/ aperture are you using?
I had this lens with a K50 and it was absolutely well it was good. Sadly I no longer have either.
I found that if I shot at ISO 400 and f8 I could hand hold at the long end at about 1/400 maybe on a good day 1/250.
David
94 posts
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Posted 10/05/2015 - 10:28
tripod (very solid "red snapper") shooting birds in good light, iso 1600, f14, 650 shutter. I purchased the lens second hand for about £380 - never ever given me a sharp shot, always just off.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
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Posted 10/05/2015 - 11:31
Do you have Shake/Vibration reduction switched on ?
David
David
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Posted 10/05/2015 - 13:11
Have you fine tuned it ?
I know what i like, If not always why.
I know what i like, If not always why.
Link
Posted 10/05/2015 - 14:55
Mirror up which seems to switch AS off but default is AS on. I have never fine tuned a lens - I am a bit of a newbie in that respect. Please advise further on that.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
Link
Posted 10/05/2015 - 15:13
This is how I did mine, there are other methods.
https://photographylife.com/how-to-quickly-test-your-dslr-for-autofocus-issues
or from another thread
I hope this is all that is stopping you from getting the sharpness you want.
Let us know how. It goes.
Derek
I know what i like, If not always why.
https://photographylife.com/how-to-quickly-test-your-dslr-for-autofocus-issues
or from another thread
karma mechanic wrote:
AF fine adjustment is the menu you need. On yours it allows a different adjustment for each lens, while on older models it is a one-size-fits-all adjustment.
On a camera body with Live View (which we can take to be perfect for this purpose) then do the following:
1. On a tripod, use LV to focus on a specific clear object a few metres away. Like a poster on the wall.
2. Once focussed, place a mark on the focussing ring (or on a piece of masking tape on the ring) to show where the exact point of focus is in relation to the centre line.
3. Defocus the lens completely by putting your hand in front of it and focussing on that.
4. Focus the lens again using normal AF, rather than LV.
5. Is the mark you made in LV now exactly aligned, or is the focus point slightly different?
6. Adjust AF offset until the two match exactly.
Once done the normal AF can be set to match the Live View AF and you have exact focus.
AF fine adjustment is the menu you need. On yours it allows a different adjustment for each lens, while on older models it is a one-size-fits-all adjustment.
On a camera body with Live View (which we can take to be perfect for this purpose) then do the following:
1. On a tripod, use LV to focus on a specific clear object a few metres away. Like a poster on the wall.
2. Once focussed, place a mark on the focussing ring (or on a piece of masking tape on the ring) to show where the exact point of focus is in relation to the centre line.
3. Defocus the lens completely by putting your hand in front of it and focussing on that.
4. Focus the lens again using normal AF, rather than LV.
5. Is the mark you made in LV now exactly aligned, or is the focus point slightly different?
6. Adjust AF offset until the two match exactly.
Once done the normal AF can be set to match the Live View AF and you have exact focus.
I hope this is all that is stopping you from getting the sharpness you want.
Let us know how. It goes.
Derek
I know what i like, If not always why.
Last Edited by derek897 on 10/05/2015 - 15:14
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Posted 11/05/2015 - 06:51
Start with live view; if that does not give sharp pictures, there is more than likely something wrong with the lens. f/14 might be a bit much due to diffraction, try to open to f/11 or f/9.
If you can get good results that way, finetune the AF (as indicated before).
Note: AF finetuning is ONLY required for normal AF (Phase Detect AF, viewfinder), not for live view (Contrast Detect AF). So changing it while in live view has no effect.
Pentax K10D + Vivitar 55/2.8 macro + Super Takumar 55/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 85/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 135/3.5 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 200/4 + Super Takumar 300/4
Pentax K100D + DA18-55ALII + DA55-300
Pentax K5 + FA31Ltd + M50/1.7 + DFA100WR + M120/2.8 (+ DA18-55WR at occasion)
If you can get good results that way, finetune the AF (as indicated before).
Note: AF finetuning is ONLY required for normal AF (Phase Detect AF, viewfinder), not for live view (Contrast Detect AF). So changing it while in live view has no effect.
Pentax K10D + Vivitar 55/2.8 macro + Super Takumar 55/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 85/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 135/3.5 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 200/4 + Super Takumar 300/4
Pentax K100D + DA18-55ALII + DA55-300
Pentax K5 + FA31Ltd + M50/1.7 + DFA100WR + M120/2.8 (+ DA18-55WR at occasion)
Last Edited by sterretje on 11/05/2015 - 06:53
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Posted 11/05/2015 - 06:57
sterretje wrote:
Start with live view; if that does not give sharp pictures, there is more than likely something wrong with the lens. f/14 might be a bit much due to diffraction, try to open to f/11 or f/9.
If you can get good results that way, finetune the AF (as indicated before).
Start with live view; if that does not give sharp pictures, there is more than likely something wrong with the lens. f/14 might be a bit much due to diffraction, try to open to f/11 or f/9.
If you can get good results that way, finetune the AF (as indicated before).
Thef14 was my immediate thought as a possible culprit here - even try it at f8 or wider. I have had some indifferent results from my copy and found that on occasion the wider aperture seems to come out sharper although it is counter-intuitive to getting a good DOF!
PS - have also used the in camera IS as opposed to the lens one as well and found it very good when shooting hand-held
Andy
Last Edited by alfpics on 11/05/2015 - 06:58
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Posted 13/05/2015 - 21:53
Thanks for all these tips I'll try them out when I get a moment and report back.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
Last Edited by Taynuiltpixels on 13/05/2015 - 21:55
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Posted 13/05/2015 - 23:10
This lens is definitely best at wider apertures, anything from F7.1 up to F10 should yield very sharp results. It will also allow you to judge better whether focus is off. I would also try to knock down the ISO; if you are shooting on a tripod then shutter speeds lower than you have mentioned should not be a big issue. Finally, the bokeh should improve with wider apertures - you will get nice diffused backgrounds.
Regards
David
Flickr
Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
Regards
David
Flickr
Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
Link
Posted 14/05/2015 - 16:39
In good light and around f8-10 it should be great, never had to adjust the focus on a K-r or K30 never used it on a tripod
Link
Posted 14/05/2015 - 22:10
It may be just that you have a poor copy of the lens? The copy I had was great, but I have read of other owners being constantly disappointed. Do you have opportunity to try out another copy of the same lens on your camera?
Regards
David
Flickr
Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
Regards
David
Flickr
Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
Link
Posted 14/05/2015 - 22:39
Excellent lens. £ for £ takes some beating. https://www.flickr.com/groups/sigma150-500/pool/54050400@N05
Having said that I don't use mine now. I've replaced it with the DA 560mm. Think I'll keep it for airshows though, where a zoom comes in handy
Alan
PPG
Flickr
Having said that I don't use mine now. I've replaced it with the DA 560mm. Think I'll keep it for airshows though, where a zoom comes in handy
Alan
PPG
Flickr
Last Edited by Blythman on 14/05/2015 - 22:39
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Taynuiltpixels
Member
Taynuilt, Argyll, UK.
Any tips/advice gratefully received.
Stephen
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.