Do you process your own film?


JAK

Link Posted 09/08/2017 - 14:05
If he's a mate perhaps he'll do it privately for you still?
Or buy a developing tank!
Is having someone provide a disc of scanned images really that different to taking them on digital in the first place?
John K

Jonathan-Mac

Link Posted 10/08/2017 - 10:56
QuestionableCarrot wrote:
ive just found out in the last few days that my mate who owned a shop in town that does developing and prints has had to close due to high rates etc.
He did a 36 roll of colour, developed and scanned for 4
The cheapest I can get it down to at the moment is 6 quid with postal fees

Looks like my days shooting analogue are numbered.

To say I am gutted is a understatement - I just cant afford to shoot it anymore

Shooting and reviewing digital images does absolutely nothing for me but I'll have to try and fall in love with it again

Sounds to me like you'll need to learn to develop yourself. In the long run I don't think it will work out as more expensive than having someone else do them, though it will use more of your time, especially if you're also scanning yourself.
Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3 & K200D, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X digital
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Last Edited by Jonathan-Mac on 10/08/2017 - 10:56

fatspider

Link Posted 15/08/2017 - 18:20
Developing your own B&W film is easy and a lot less reliant on accurate temperatures than colour.

Another option you could consider is shooting slide film and developing that yourself, I had a go at this back in the 80s using just a Patterson developing tank and the thermostatic shower in the bathroom, getting the shower to run at a specific temp. with the shower head removed gave me an instant supply of water at the correct temp.

Developing slide film may be a bit more expensive than colour negative but you have the advantage of a much cleaner noise free image.

Google E6 processing.
My Names Alan, and I'm a lensaholic.
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ilovesaabs

Link Posted 16/08/2017 - 09:36
I send mine to a lab (Peak Imaging - they've never let me down) but at over 10 to get a set of prints done, and with film costing 5 or more now (even FP4/HP5) the economics of prints from film is getting less appealing day by day. So I might just have to use E6 in the film cameras in future if I can get hold of Provia/Velvia inexpensively... I do love using my M645 and Z-1p but I don't have the skills or patience to develop my own film/
AKA Welshwizard/PWynneJ
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Hardgravity

Link Posted 16/12/2017 - 09:47
Sorry I'm late on this thread but...

For my 3'apporth I use an AGFA Rondinax 35 daylight developing tank.

I get bulk film, load cassettes in a dark bag then following the instructions develop in the Rondinax.

Ilford chemicals (readily available) do the job ok, and after developing I scan into the computer.

I started developing my own film as an easy way of testing old cameras, and sort off kept going.

As an aside, I'm currently using Ilfosol S that's 2 years out of date, it's been kept cold and still does the job!
Cheers, HG

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macabee

Link Posted 27/10/2018 - 14:59
I have just returned to developing film [B&W] after a hiatus of about 12 years. I developed my own for about 40 years, where I lived I had my own darkroom, now it is just the bathroom. C41 is not difficult just temp critical and constant, I use the following:-

A large Kood changing bag, enough to accommodate my bulk loader, dev tank etc.
A good dev tank, personally I use and prefer JOBO 1510 better seal than screw top versions
Two cheap measuring jugs, cheap kitchen timer. I tend to use Rodinal film developer, very good keeping qualities, any good fixer, I make my own stop bath using acetic acid powder.

I do not use film squeegees, as there is the risk of scratching the film, I use a wet piece of chamois leather, works for me, as my bathroom is next to the airing cupboard this is also my film drying cabinet, works for me.

Of course this is all personal preference, I shoot with 'Kentmere 100' good film stock at a good price.

In lieu of a darkroom I scan my negs and use photo editing software.

I hope this helps.

Helpful

Kim C

Link Posted 28/10/2018 - 01:12
Monochrome is relatively easy. C41 is a pain and cheaper to get it done in a lab. However, if you want to try colour E6 can be economical if films are done in batches as the chemicals do not keep once mixed.

Chrism8

Link Posted 28/10/2018 - 10:44
I used to process both C41 and E6 many years ago, and print both colour and mono from both in the traditional bathroom converted into a darkroom.

E6 as mentioned above is best done in batches, but I would find the mix would last a week, I used to come back from an Airshow with 3 x 36exp films and have them processes and drying within a couple of hours, the key to it all is keeping the tank at the ideal temperature and the timings roughly right depending on the bath temp.
Chris

www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk

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Last Edited by Chrism8 on 28/10/2018 - 10:55

ChrisPlatt

Link Posted 01/11/2018 - 01:16
As stated here by others processing black and white is cheap as chips.
Given the chance you may find that BW has a charm beyond color.
The real reward is that developing it yourself finally gives you full creative control.

Chris
Bring back the latent image!
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