Birds in flight shots using K-50 and Tamron 70-300mm f4-5.6 lens.
Posted 06/08/2016 - 09:17
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Good morning walt. Firstly, I've looked at your K-30/K-50 shots and I'm very impressed, they are giving me plenty to work on. I'm even going to 'cheat' and take note of some of your settings in differing weather and light conditions.
I agree completely with your observations and those of Chrism8, they really are appreciated. I've noticed the green and purple edging in some of my shots with the Tamron 70-300. I'm not sure but it seems to happen more when the lens is at 300mm. I'm going to use it at around 250-280 and see the results. Also, I've been getting above my station by looking at the better lenses but I'm kidding myself as they are too much for me to pay.
There is one which I might be able to save for in a couple of months, the Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 SP AF Di LD (IF) macro lens. I'm going to research it over the next week or so. Have you or anyone got personal experience of the lens, please? Muchly thankings.
I agree completely with your observations and those of Chrism8, they really are appreciated. I've noticed the green and purple edging in some of my shots with the Tamron 70-300. I'm not sure but it seems to happen more when the lens is at 300mm. I'm going to use it at around 250-280 and see the results. Also, I've been getting above my station by looking at the better lenses but I'm kidding myself as they are too much for me to pay.
There is one which I might be able to save for in a couple of months, the Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 SP AF Di LD (IF) macro lens. I'm going to research it over the next week or so. Have you or anyone got personal experience of the lens, please? Muchly thankings.
Posted 08/08/2016 - 12:56
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Posted 08/08/2016 - 12:57
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Posted 08/08/2016 - 13:05
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Exif is ISO 1250, f5.6, 1/1600 at 240mm.
The only constant is the 2400mm as I'm trying to get rid of the purple fringing which appears at 300mm. It needs more research. I've been messing around with different settings in more or less the same weather conditions. I think that my best effort is the first one with the ISO on 800.
I've also been trying the same settings as I have on my 760D but they don't seem to work out on my K-50. I'm sure that it is me and not the cameras, although I have wondered whether the differences in lens quality might have something to do with that. The K-50 lens is the Tamron 70-300mm and the 760D lens is a canon 70-200mm f.4 'L' lens. As always all opinions are welcome and any assistance valued. Muchly thankings.
Posted 08/08/2016 - 15:26
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That purple fringing is quite obtrusive. If you're thinking of a new lens the Pentax 55-300mm is probably the strongest option.
If cost is a problem, then the Pentax FA J 70-300mm is available from SRS for a very modest £119. It's a film era full frame lens but SRS seem to have found a source of new ones. It's a real baragin and results are almost as good as the newer 55-300mm. Certainly much better than the results you've shown above.
Hope that helps!
If cost is a problem, then the Pentax FA J 70-300mm is available from SRS for a very modest £119. It's a film era full frame lens but SRS seem to have found a source of new ones. It's a real baragin and results are almost as good as the newer 55-300mm. Certainly much better than the results you've shown above.
Hope that helps!
Best regards, John
Posted 08/08/2016 - 16:09
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I don't know what software you are using but Lightroom has a one-click feature to eliminate fringing.
Posted 08/08/2016 - 16:55
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johnriley wrote:
That purple fringing is quite obtrusive. If you're thinking of a new lens the Pentax 55-300mm is probably the strongest option.
If cost is a problem, then the Pentax FA J 70-300mm is available from SRS for a very modest £119. It's a film era full frame lens but SRS seem to have found a source of new ones. It's a real baragin and results are almost as good as the newer 55-300mm. Certainly much better than the results you've shown above.
Hope that helps!
That purple fringing is quite obtrusive. If you're thinking of a new lens the Pentax 55-300mm is probably the strongest option.
If cost is a problem, then the Pentax FA J 70-300mm is available from SRS for a very modest £119. It's a film era full frame lens but SRS seem to have found a source of new ones. It's a real baragin and results are almost as good as the newer 55-300mm. Certainly much better than the results you've shown above.
Hope that helps!
johnriley, which of the Pentax 55-300mm do you mean as I am thinking that there may be three?
Posted 08/08/2016 - 16:56
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RobL wrote:
I don't know what software you are using but Lightroom has a one-click feature to eliminate fringing.
I don't know what software you are using but Lightroom has a one-click feature to eliminate fringing.
RobL, I use Elements 13 but only on the easy/quick mode as I am not well up with it.
Posted 12/08/2016 - 18:22
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Posted 12/08/2016 - 18:23
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Posted 12/08/2016 - 18:24
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Posted 12/08/2016 - 18:27
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Posted 12/08/2016 - 19:31
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Hi Gedski,
Firstly i don't think the space is an issue, your not uploading at large image sizes, the recent ones are all sharp, the bee looks good, the butterfly could be a ringlet but may be better if shot from behind with both wings open, I think at this stage your technique and settings have improved greatly and just needs tweaking to get the results you want.
Firstly i don't think the space is an issue, your not uploading at large image sizes, the recent ones are all sharp, the bee looks good, the butterfly could be a ringlet but may be better if shot from behind with both wings open, I think at this stage your technique and settings have improved greatly and just needs tweaking to get the results you want.
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
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K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 12/08/2016 - 21:58
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Chrism8 wrote:
Hi Gedski,
Firstly i don't think the space is an issue, your not uploading at large image sizes, the recent ones are all sharp, the bee looks good, the butterfly could be a ringlet but may be better if shot from behind with both wings open, I think at this stage your technique and settings have improved greatly and just needs tweaking to get the results you want.
Hi Gedski,
Firstly i don't think the space is an issue, your not uploading at large image sizes, the recent ones are all sharp, the bee looks good, the butterfly could be a ringlet but may be better if shot from behind with both wings open, I think at this stage your technique and settings have improved greatly and just needs tweaking to get the results you want.
Chrism8, muchly thankings for your comments. I'm gradually coming to terms with the workings of the K-50. I'm finding that still shots like those above are easier to get more or less right. It's the BIF and other moving subjects that are more difficult to consistently get correct. Still, faint heart and all that.
I shall continue to post my efforts, continuing in this thread, unless I'm breaking protocol.
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201 posts
17 years
Of the following 3 it's hard to tell how sharp the birds are because of over exposure. One of the drawbacks of this lens is that purple fringing rears it ugly head when highlights are blown, so I tended to err on the side of underexposure and then in editing try and get the best balance for exposure. The Pentax's, especially the K-50/30 sensor is very very forgiving of underexposure. However one caveat is that I shoot raw and can recover the shadows etc easily in editing. If you shoot jpegs only I'm not sure how well this will work. Maybe others could chip in?
The 2nd image has focused on the background you can see the ripples are sharper behind the gull.
I agree with the other comment that chain looks in focus better than the birds, but it may be movement of the birds or the overexposure. Did you use single point af, or expansion points around a single point? With this much subject matter to focus on I don't think the auto select of all 11 points would pick out the birds, so you'd probably have to tell the AF exactly what point you wanted to use.
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