Advice wanted re a graduated ND grad - screw fit, not gel or similar!
Posted 15/08/2017 - 13:39
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What do you mean, screw in? Grad filters are all square and slide into a holder, that's the only way to adjust them. Take a look at Cokin Nuances, they are glass in your price range, and get a decent filter holder to protect them! I have a holder with credit card-like pockets but the filters stick against the plastic, a lined holder like the Lee Filters one is much better.
Posted 15/08/2017 - 13:50
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Thanks but no-way will I be getting any of square filter holder systems - too much "trouble", and not enough potential use for what I would want.
And, actually, you are incorrect about there being no screw-in graduated ND filters - for example this Tiffen, although that is not the size I need.
And, actually, you are incorrect about there being no screw-in graduated ND filters - for example this Tiffen, although that is not the size I need.
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
Posted 15/08/2017 - 14:05 - Helpful Comment
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RobL wrote:
What do you mean, screw in? Grad filters are all square and slide into a holder, that's the only way to adjust them.
What do you mean, screw in? Grad filters are all square and slide into a holder, that's the only way to adjust them.
sure?
Well these look round and screw in to me:
I believe this type were common before the square ones! These Cromofilters or similar were not usually seen above 58mm and most commonly just 49, 52 and 55mm as most lenses at the time were primes with these smaller diameters.
Trying to fit anything like these on the 10-20mm would seem to me to be a non starter though. Might be OK with the 17-70 if anyone makes/made them in the correct size (but doubt they do.)
The solution would be to seek out some primes like the Pentax 20, 24, 28, 35, 40, 50mm which would be compatible with them.
Given the dynamic range of the sensors now, do you really feel they are necessary? Just do the grad in PP. However if you are doing slide film they can be very handy as PP isn't really on with that!
John K
Posted 15/08/2017 - 14:27
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JAK wrote:
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Trying to fit anything like these on the 10-20mm would seem to me to be a non starter though. Might be OK with the 17-70 if anyone makes/made them in the correct size (but doubt they do.)
Given the dynamic range of the sensors now, do you really feel they are necessary? Just do the grad in PP. However if you are doing slide film they can be very handy as PP isn't really on with that!
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Trying to fit anything like these on the 10-20mm would seem to me to be a non starter though. Might be OK with the 17-70 if anyone makes/made them in the correct size (but doubt they do.)
Given the dynamic range of the sensors now, do you really feel they are necessary? Just do the grad in PP. However if you are doing slide film they can be very handy as PP isn't really on with that!
I have the smaller variable aperture 10-20 Sigma, and it does have a filter thread on the front (in fact, a few years ago, a filter fitted there "sacrificed" itself to save the lens when the K-5 fell on the floor ).
As for primes and PP, I'm probably "too lazy" to be bothered with either most of the time (I have one prime - an old F1.4 50mm that I bought from here several years ago, and I have hardly - if ever - used it)
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
Posted 15/08/2017 - 14:38
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Before spending vast sums, have a play in Elements:
http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/technique/expert_advice/graduated-nd-filter...
http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/technique/expert_advice/graduated-nd-filter...
John K
Posted 15/08/2017 - 19:26
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Screw on Grads have always seemed a daft idea to me. I want to compose my image to fit the frame not have to it it to the grad.
Square type filters can easily be held in front of the lens for normal range exposures - without bothering with the filter mounting kit. But I have to say software generally does a much better job than a grad can manage for anything other than a very flat horizon.
Square type filters can easily be held in front of the lens for normal range exposures - without bothering with the filter mounting kit. But I have to say software generally does a much better job than a grad can manage for anything other than a very flat horizon.
Mike
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Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
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Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
Posted 15/08/2017 - 19:36
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Still won't be going the Cokin or similar route, but maybe I should clarify a couple of points:
- I just want something I can very quickly "fish out of the bag" on the few occasions when the scenery and lighting appear to warrant it;
- I don't want to do much, and I'm totally sh1t at, PP as I don't have the skills or patience (and often the time) to do all that!
To me that means I need a quick and simple "solution" - like what I originally asked for (and so Thx to those who came up with the most appropriate ideas )
- I just want something I can very quickly "fish out of the bag" on the few occasions when the scenery and lighting appear to warrant it;
- I don't want to do much, and I'm totally sh1t at, PP as I don't have the skills or patience (and often the time) to do all that!
To me that means I need a quick and simple "solution" - like what I originally asked for (and so Thx to those who came up with the most appropriate ideas )
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
Posted 15/08/2017 - 20:20
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jeallen01 wrote:
- I don't want to do much, and I'm totally sh1t at, PP as I don't have the skills or patience (and often the time) to do all that!
- I don't want to do much, and I'm totally sh1t at, PP as I don't have the skills or patience (and often the time) to do all that!
Just give it half an hour to have a play for starters. you may actually prefer it! With practice you might find you can process the image in moments. Just need to learn it!
If you go that route, take the images in raw as jpegs won't provide sufficient dynamic range. Pentax is one of the best for good dynamic range!
http://mattk.com/why-graduated-neutral-density-filters-are-dead-to-me/
John K
Posted 15/08/2017 - 21:34
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"Each one to his own" - and PP is not mine wherever possible
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
Posted 15/08/2017 - 21:50
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I am corrected, never seen round grad filters! Obvious problem is you cannot control where the change comes, always halfway down so your horizon has to be across the middle too. I'm with jeallen01 cannot be bothered with too much time in Lightroom but once you have screwed on a square filter mount it is much quicker to change filters or add another like a full ND filter than screwing/unscrewing round ones. And of course you just need one system with different mount rings to suit the lenses. Word of caution on the 10-20mm Sigma, you risk vignetting if the filter isn't big enough so best if possible to try in a shop first.
Posted 16/08/2017 - 00:13
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Your going to stuggle I think, to buy new, in glass for £50 - £60. (Hope i'm wrong). Most cost nearly as much as the lens. The two lens filter sizes are different so Im assuming your going for a 77mm filter for the 10-20 and a 72-77 stepping ring for the 17-70. Many of the cheaper filters leave a colour cast on skies..So photoshop/Lightroom may still have to be an option..
Also I will add, though you dont want square filters that the Cokin P series filters arnt wide enough for the 10-20 So only Z series would be satisfactory.
Best of luck in the search..
Also I will add, though you dont want square filters that the Cokin P series filters arnt wide enough for the 10-20 So only Z series would be satisfactory.
Best of luck in the search..
K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses
Stuart..
Stuart..
Posted 16/08/2017 - 00:36
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Anything here:
http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/round-ups/accessory_round_ups/best-nd-grad-...
But just look at some of the prices. The Hoya circular... from around £210 !
Are you sure it isn't worth spending half an hour getting to grips with Elements? A no brainer in all honesty!
The only cheap option is to buy one of the Chinese ND Grad kits, but results can be mixed, though might be worth it to see if it's going to work for you before buying something more expensive.
http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/round-ups/accessory_round_ups/best-nd-grad-...
But just look at some of the prices. The Hoya circular... from around £210 !
Are you sure it isn't worth spending half an hour getting to grips with Elements? A no brainer in all honesty!
The only cheap option is to buy one of the Chinese ND Grad kits, but results can be mixed, though might be worth it to see if it's going to work for you before buying something more expensive.
John K
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1930 posts
15 years
W.London
Not interested in gel/similar or plastic (like some Tiffen) ones as they would not last a couple of days with the way I store/use them!
So, your suggestions would be appreciated - Thanks in advance.