A little help in wedding photography...?


johnha

Link Posted 07/11/2018 - 23:08
stub wrote:
Thanks for the advice John,,, No I'm certainly not looking to do it Professionally.. Though I have agreed to help out with one more... Then I think it will be back to "NO THANKS"

I wouldn't necessarily knock the experience & knowledge you'll get (either for weddings specifically or more generally) by doing more (assuming it's worth the effort). Any opportunity to do something new or different will improve your understanding of photography. Working with a pro is much better than being suckered* into a costly training programme with a fake certificate for shooting a fake wedding simply to produce a fake 'portfolio' to pretend to have experience...

* I'm not suggesting anyone on here would fall for this, but every photo show has countless stands pushing this crap to anyone with grand expectations of being the next 'must have wedding shooter'... ruining countless happy couple's special day...
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Last Edited by johnha on 07/11/2018 - 23:09

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richandfleur

Link Posted 08/11/2018 - 05:47
JAK wrote:
[35mm full-frame]
Max. approx. 4.4 fps, JPEG ( L: ★★★ at Continuous H): up to approx. 70 frames, RAW: up to approx. 17 frames
Max. approx. 3.0 fps, JPEG ( L: ★★★ at Continuous M): up to approx. 100 frames, RAW: up to approx. 20 frames
Max. approx. 0.7 fps, JPEG ( L: ★★★ at Continuous L): up to approx. 100 frames, RAW: up to approx. 100 frames

[APS-C size]
Max. approx. 6.5 fps, JPEG ( L: ★★★ at Continuous H): up to approx. 100 frames, RAW: up to approx. 50 frames
Max. approx. 3.0 fps, JPEG ( L: ★★★ at Continuous M): up to approx. 100 frames, RAW: up to approx. 70 frames
Max. approx. 1.0 fps, JPEG ( L: ★★★ at Continuous L): up to approx. 100 frames, RAW: up to approx. 100 frames


Thanks for the info

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cardiffgareth

Link Posted 08/11/2018 - 20:00
I've shot a few weddings not with the K1 but with the K3 II and also K5ii and I've never needed to shoot with the motor drive on when the bride is coming down the aisle. I'll generally just use single shot and snap a few off as she comes down.
I shot a few weddings where flash couldn't be used because of the height of the ceilings but luckily I always will check out the Venue weeks in advance and also the night before to make sure nothing has changed and that im aware of these situations. When this does occur as I'm pre warned I will have already scouted out the best locations for me to shoot so that im able to reproduce images in the best possible places where the light is better. Obviously certain shots cannot be reproduced so for these images I will up the ISO and open the aperture and shoot ideally above 1/100 second with the standard zoom so that the images are blue free.
Also I've never needed to shoot anything wider than 24 ml comma as if the image I need requires a wider lens I will lock the exposure and shoot two images side by side and then merge later on that way I am able to keep the lens choice down and not overcomplicate things on the day. In fact the last wedding I shot I took with me the Pentax 16-50 mm lens and also the sigma 70-200mm lens 😎
Gareth
Welsh Photographer

My outfit: K1 gripped - Pentax DFA 28-105mm - Sigma 70-200mm HSM Macro - Sigma 105mm - Pentax FA 35mm f2 - Tokina 20-35mm, Sigma 50-500mm - Pentax AF 540 FGZ Ii

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Unlocker

Link Posted 09/11/2018 - 16:10
It seems that from what you mentioned that you are hitting the limits of your kit and struggling a bit, the last wedding I did was using a K1 with 24-70 etc. and I had very similar issues to you:

- walking down the aisle, the autofocus couldn't keep up

- confetti shots, hitting the buffer very easily, especially when shooting RAW on 2x cards (only 4.6fps in RAW, 13 shot buffer, slower with 2x cards.)

- High ISO shooting with f2.8 zooms etc.

If you were going to do this on a regular basis for a living, then the steps the DSLR owner could be doing to ensure his results are of a far better quality could involve changing systems (which I have now done) for performance / consistency / lens option reasons, because:-

- More f1.4 lens options like 28mm f1/4, 35mm f1.4, 85mm f1.4 etc. This would have meant your 6400 ISO shots at f2.8 could be 1600 ISO shots at f1.4

- Autofocus performance is more reliable at moving targets, especially when you bring faster glass into the equation. So called 'eye tracking AF' is becoming very popular for this reason

- Better buffer / faster card options on some cameras, my card can write at 400MB/s and I've never hit the buffer outside of testing it.

- Better access to 3rd party flash systems such as Godox etc.

By the sounds of it, you're being dragged into it kicking and screaming, only occasionally and in those circumstances I wouldn't suggest changing kit but instead to learn your kit more intimately and work within the limitations that you are hitting and adapt as best you can with the conditions you are in. If you're feeling flush, there's always the new 50 f1.4 or the good old 77mm Ltd you could add to the kit bag!

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cardiffgareth

Link Posted 09/11/2018 - 16:13
Quick question but are you using back button autofocus as I disabled autofocus on the shutter button and use the rear button for AF instead and my keeper rate went up massively
Gareth
Welsh Photographer

My outfit: K1 gripped - Pentax DFA 28-105mm - Sigma 70-200mm HSM Macro - Sigma 105mm - Pentax FA 35mm f2 - Tokina 20-35mm, Sigma 50-500mm - Pentax AF 540 FGZ Ii

My Flickr

My 500px
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